Merda de can
Also: Monégasque spinach gnocchi, Barba-Giuan family (spinach dumpling)
A rustic Monégasque dish of small spinach-and-flour gnocchi-like dumplings (the name is a humorous reference to their shape), boiled and dressed with sauce and cheese.
Identity criteria
- 1Dough of cooked spinach (or chard) bound with flour and egg
- 2Shaped into small soft logs/dumplings, hence the irreverent name
- 3Boiled like gnocchi until they float
- 4A green, vegetal dumpling rather than a potato gnocco
- 5Served simply with a sauce (tomato or butter) and grated cheese
Components
Cooked spinach or chardessentialGives the green colour and vegetal flavour
Flour and eggessentialBinds the greens into a workable dough
Salt, pepper, nutmegessentialTypical seasoning for the spinach dough
Grated cheese and a sauce (tomato or butter)optionalDressing for the boiled dumplings
Technique
- Squeezing and chopping cooked greens
- Removes water so the dough binds rather than slumps
- Shaping small dumplings/logs
- Defines the form (and the joke name)
- Boiling until they float
- Cooks the dumplings through while keeping them tender
Form & serving
- Served
- Boiled dumplings dressed with sauce and cheese
- Temperature
- hot
- Portion
- single plate
- Pairs with
- tomato sauce · grated Parmesan or local cheese · rosé wine
Character
Flavour
Texture
soft, tender green dumplings
Eaten
A homely Monégasque comfort dish, made from garden greens and served as an everyday family main.
When
all-year
Variations & related
Regional variations
- Chard version · Monaco / Ligurian coast
Made with Swiss chard instead of spinach
- Tomato-dressed vs butter-and-cheese · Monaco
Either a simple tomato sauce or browned butter with cheese
Related dishes
- sibling Gnudi
Tuscan spinach-and-ricotta dumplings of the same idea
- sibling Malfatti
Italian spinach-ricotta dumplings
Substitutions
Spinach → Swiss chardadmissible
Traditional and interchangeable in the region
Green spinach dough → Potato gnocchi doughinadmissible
A potato gnocco is a different dish; the spinach is the defining base
Common mistakes
- Not draining the spinach so the dough is too wet to hold
- Adding too much flour, making the dumplings heavy and gluey
- Boiling too hard so the soft dumplings break apart
- Treating it as potato gnocchi rather than a greens-based dumpling
Provenance
A traditional Monégasque grandmother's dish shared with the neighbouring Ligurian/Niçoise coast, its earthy name reflecting the humble peasant origin.
Claimed by: Monaco
References
- 1.Monégasque regional cuisine
Confidence: medium