Pastry & Confectionery

Chemiser

Also: chemisage, lining a mold, coating a mold, shirt the mold

To coat the interior of a baking or chilled mold with a thin, continuous layer of fat, flour, breadcrumbs, caramel, chocolate, jelly, or biscuit so that the finished preparation releases cleanly and presents a smooth or decorated exterior.

/shuh-mee-ZAY/French; from chemise (shirt, lining), from Late Latin camisia (linen undergarment). The culinary usage appears throughout 19th-century French pâtisserie literature, notably in Carême and his successors.

Definition

Chemiser (from chemise, 'shirt') is the preparatory step of dressing the inside of a mold before filling it. Just as a shirt lines the inside of a jacket, the chemise lines the inside of the container to provide a separating or presentational layer between the mold wall and the food. The choice of lining material is governed entirely by what is being made and the desired result on the surface of the unmoulded product. **Fat and flour (or sugar)** is the classic chemise for génoise, madeleines, and pound cakes: the mold is buttered, excess flour is turned until every surface is coated and the pan tapped out. This gives the batter a surface to grip during the first moments of baking without sticking permanently, yielding a pale, even crust on the finished cake. For caramel-flavoured cakes, sugar replaces flour; for nut financiers, ground almonds. **Breadcrumbs** (panure) are used for soufflé dishes, brioche tins, and savoury charlottes where a slightly textured, crumb-coated exterior is desirable. They also absorb moisture at the mold interface and produce a crisper outer layer. **Caramel** chemises the mold for a classic crème caramel: hot liquid caramel is swirled over the base and sides before the custard is poured in. On unmoulding, the caramel becomes the mirror-glossy exterior of the turned-out dessert. **Tempered chocolate** is the chemise for bonbon shells and moulded chocolate desserts: a thin layer of couverture is poured in, rotated to coat the walls, and inverted to drain, leaving a uniform shell ready to be filled with ganache or praline. **Aspic, jelly, or mirror glaze** chemises chilled mousse molds, charlotte royales, and entremets: a thin set layer of gel is brushed or poured in and chilled before the mousse is added. On unmoulding the gel forms the shiny, transparent outer surface. For a charlotte royale, spirals of Swiss roll are used instead of jelly, making the visual effect structural. **Pâte à bombe or biscuit** (e.g., ladyfinger-lined charlotte) are semi-structural chemises where the lining both releases the filling and provides a distinct flavoured casing.

In use

Before ladling in the raspberry mousse, he chemised the dome mold with a thin coat of mirror glaze, allowed it to set firm, and then filled and froze the entremets so that every unmoulded dome would emerge with a flawless, jewel-like surface.

See also

  • TechniqueTempering Chocolate
  • TechniqueBlind Baking
  • ConceptMold Release

Related terms

FonçageBeurre PommadeMirror GlazeAspicCharlotte RoyaleCrème CaramelMoulded ChocolateBiscuit Cuillère

References

  1. 1.Larousse Gastronomique
  2. 2.Pâtisserie — Christophe Felder
  3. 3.The Art of the Chocolatier — Ewald Notter
  4. 4.Professional Baking — Wayne Gisslen (7th ed.)

Confidence: high

Notes

The difference between chemiser and fonçage

Fonçage is strictly about lining with a sheet of pastry dough. Chemiser is the broader term for coating a mold with any material—fat, gel, chocolate, or biscuit. A tart shell involves fonçage; a crème caramel mold involves chemiser. A charlotte lined with ladyfingers involves chemiser; lining that same charlotte with a pastry disk would be fonçage for the disk and chemiser for the overall preparation.

Chocolate mold chemisage

For hollow chocolate shells, well-tempered couverture is key. The mold must be clean, dry, and at approximately 20–22 °C (too cold causes immediate condensation and bloom; too warm retards setting). After the first pour-and-drain, a second thinner coat is often applied once the first has set to ensure an even, pinhole-free shell.