Egg-Based Ratios
Crème Pâtissière (Milk to Egg Yolk to Sugar to Starch)
Also: pastry cream, crème pât, custard cream, pastry custard
Starch-thickened custard at a 10 : 2 : 2 : 1 ratio of milk to yolks to sugar to starch (roughly 5 yolks per 500 g milk) — cooked until the starch fully gelatinizes.
Crème pâtissière is a thick, stable pastry cream built on a base custard reinforced with starch (cornstarch or flour). Unlike a poured crème anglaise, it sets to a spreadable, pipeable consistency that holds its shape inside pastries and tarts. The starch does double duty: it thickens the cream and, critically, denatures the egg-yolk proteins at a higher temperature so the yolks can be boiled without scrambling — which is what eliminates the raw-starch taste.
The proportions
- 500 g (10 parts)
- Whole milk — Full-fat for richness; infuse with vanilla bean, citrus peel, or spice in the milk before tempering
- 100 g / about 5 yolks (2 parts)
- Egg yolks — Provide flavor, color, and emulsifying lecithin; whole eggs make a paler, lighter cream. Corrected 2026-07 — professional references (Felder, CAP Pâtissier standard) use 4–6 yolks per 500 g milk, not 10; see the correction note below
- 100 g (2 parts)
- Granulated sugar — Whisk with yolks immediately to prevent the sugar from 'burning' the yolks
- 50 g (1 part)
- Cornstarch (fécule de maïs) — Can substitute all-purpose flour at 60 g — flour gives a slightly starchy flavor and less glossy finish
- 30–50 g
- Unsalted butter (optional enrichment) — Whisked in off-heat for a mousseline finish; improves sheen and richness
Method
Whisk yolks, sugar, and cornstarch together until pale and thick. Bring milk (with any aromatics) to a simmer, then pour one-third over the yolk mixture, whisking constantly to temper. Return all to the pan over medium heat, whisking vigorously. Cook past the first boil for a full 60–90 seconds — the mixture will seize, then relax as the starch fully gelatinizes. Remove from heat, whisk in butter if using, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface to prevent a skin, and chill rapidly to below 4 °C. Beat smooth before use.
Tips
- Whisk yolks and sugar immediately after combining — prolonged contact before whisking causes 'burning' (localized denaturation) that creates yellow specks in the finished cream.
- Cook the cream past the boil and hold for 60 seconds. The starch granules must fully burst or the cream will taste floury and will thin on standing.
- Rapid chilling is a food-safety imperative: spread into a shallow sheet pan, cover with plastic, and blast-chill or set over an ice bath. Pastry cream left in the 40–60 °C zone breeds bacteria quickly.
- If the finished cream is lumpy, pass it through a fine-mesh sieve while warm and whisk vigorously — don't re-cook.
- Cornstarch gives a glossier, cleaner flavor; flour gives a more robust, pâtisserie-rustique texture. Many classic French recipes blend the two (25 g cornstarch + 25 g flour per 500 g milk).
- Pastry cream keeps 2–3 days refrigerated; do not freeze — the starch retrogrades and the cream weeps on thawing.
Variations
- Crème mousseline
Equal weight of softened butter beaten into chilled pastry cream — used in Paris-Brest and fraisier
- Crème diplomat
Pastry cream lightened with an equal or lesser volume of stabilized whipped cream — fills mille-feuille
- Crème légère
Lighter than diplomat: 1 part pastry cream to 1 part lightly whipped cream, no gelatin
- Chiboust (crème Saint-Honoré)
Pastry cream folded with Italian meringue; used in gâteau Saint-Honoré; highly perishable
- Flour-based version
Replace cornstarch with all-purpose flour at a 6:5 weight swap; cooks more slowly, less silky finish
- Chocolate pastry cream
Add 60–80 g dark chocolate off-heat; reduce sugar by 15 g to compensate for chocolate's sugar content
Related ratios
- Crème Anglaise (Milk to Egg Yolk to Sugar)
The unstarch'd parent; same yolk-to-milk backbone but poured at 82 °C without starch
- Béchamel (Butter to Flour to Milk)
Shares the starch-thickened milk structure but uses a roux instead of yolks — the savory parallel
Baked whole-egg custard; no starch, set by protein coagulation alone
Appears in
References
- 1.The Professional Pastry Chef — Bo Friberg (4th ed.)
- 2.Patisserie — Christophe Felder
- 3.On Food and Cooking — Harold McGee
- 4.Le Guide Culinaire — Auguste Escoffier
Confidence: high
Notes
Why starch changes the rules
Egg yolks normally scramble around 70–75 °C. Starch granules compete for the water in the mixture, and their swelling physically interrupts yolk-protein networks — raising the scrambling temperature to above 80 °C and allowing the cream to boil without curdling. This is why you must stir constantly and why the cream 'breaks' then reconstitutes as the starch fully gelatinizes: what looks like curdling is actually starch paste forming between protein strands.
Adjusting firmness
Reduce cornstarch to 40 g per 500 g milk for a softer, more spoonable crème (better for verrines). Increase to 60 g for a stiffer cream that holds piped shapes in éclairs without slumping. The yolk count can also be nudged within the professional range: 4 yolks gives a lighter cream, 6 yolks a richer, more golden one — but don't go below 4 or the emulsion becomes fragile.
Correction: yolk count (2026-07)
This entry previously listed 200 g / about 10 egg yolks per 500 g milk (a 10:4:2:1 ratio) — roughly double what professional pastry references actually use. Christophe Felder's own published crème pâtissière recipes (cited in this entry's sources) call for 4 yolks per 500 ml milk in the standard version and 6 yolks per 500 g milk in the richer 'extra' version; the French CAP Pâtissier professional benchmark is 6–8 yolks per litre of milk, i.e. 3–4 yolks per 500 ml. Verified against Felder's 'Pâtisserie!' recipes and CAP Pâtissier technical sheets (2026-07); corrected here to 100 g / 5 yolks (2 parts) per 500 g milk — a 10:2:2:1 ratio — as a representative mid-point of the 4–6-yolk professional range. The doubled figure was likely an authoring error, possibly conflating whole eggs with yolk count or grams with individual yolks.