Dressings & Emulsified Sauces
Hollandaise (Butter to Egg Yolk)
Also: sauce hollandaise, warm butter emulsion, Dutch sauce
Three yolks coaxed over gentle heat to absorb 225 g of clarified butter — the French mother sauce that defines the warm emulsion family.
A warm, stable oil-in-water emulsion produced by whisking clarified (or whole) butter into partially cooked egg yolks over a bain-marie. The canonical ratio is 3 large yolks to 225 g (about 250 ml) of clarified butter, with lemon juice and a white-wine-vinegar reduction for acidity. The sauce is held warm (60–65 °C) and served immediately; it breaks above 70 °C and congeals below 55 °C.
The proportions
- 3
- Egg yolks (large) — Whisked over a bain-marie to the ribbon stage (65 °C) before butter is added
- 225 g
- Clarified butter (or ghee) — Warm but not hot (50–55 °C); removing milk solids reduces breakage risk and boosts stability
- 1 tbsp
- Lemon juice — Half at the reduction stage, half at the finish; provides acid backbone
- 2 tbsp (reduced from 4 tbsp)
- White-wine vinegar reduction — Shallot, black pepper, vinegar reduced by half — the classic flavour base; strain before use
- to taste
- Fine salt and white pepper — White pepper preferred to avoid black specks in the pale yellow sauce
- 1–2 tsp
- Water (optional) — A splash can thin an over-reduced sauce or assist re-emulsification
Method
Combine the strained reduction with yolks in a heatproof bowl. Set over a pot of barely simmering water (bain-marie), ensuring the bowl does not touch the water. Whisk continuously until the mixture thickens, triples in volume, and reaches 65 °C — yolks should coat the whisk in a pale, voluminous ribbon. Remove from heat. Whisk in warm clarified butter in a slow, thin stream, exactly as with mayonnaise. Season with lemon juice, salt, and white pepper. Hold at 60–65 °C (set bowl in warm water bath) and serve within 90 minutes.
Tips
- Keep the bain-marie water at a bare simmer, never a boil — steam rising from vigorous boiling will over-heat the bowl's rim and scramble the edges of the yolk mixture.
- The clarified butter should be warm to the touch (around 50 °C) when added — cold butter shocks the emulsion; butter above 60 °C risks cooking the yolks on contact.
- If the sauce begins to look oily or granular, immediately whisk in 1–2 tsp of cold water to cool and re-emulsify.
- To hold service: transfer finished sauce to a warm (not hot) thermos or double boiler at 60 °C; stir gently every 15 minutes. Discard after 2 hours.
- Whole unsalted butter can replace clarified butter for a more complex, slightly more fragile sauce — the water and milk solids add flavour but lower the stability ceiling.
- A broken hollandaise can often be rescued by whisking the broken sauce drop by drop into a fresh yolk in a clean warm bowl.
Variations
- Béarnaise
Reduction uses tarragon and chervil instead of plain shallot; finish with chopped fresh tarragon — the classic sauce for steak
- Sauce Choron
Béarnaise with tomato concassée folded in; good with grilled fish and lamb
- Sauce Maltaise
Hollandaise finished with blood-orange juice and zest instead of lemon; pairs with asparagus
- Sauce Mousseline (Chantilly)
Softly whipped cream folded into finished hollandaise just before service; lighter, more delicate
- Blender Hollandaise
Yolks blended in a standing blender while hot butter is poured in a stream — faster and less likely to scramble, but slightly less silky
Related ratios
Cold counterpart — same emulsification principle; yolk, fat, and acid but at ambient temperature
Warm butter sauce without yolk; relies on butter's own milk proteins for transient emulsification
The simplest fat-and-acid sauce; hollandaise is its fully stabilised, cooked, buttery relative
Appears in
References
- 1.Mastering the Art of French Cooking — Julia Child, Louisette Bertholle & Simone Beck
- 2.Larousse Gastronomique — Prosper Montagné (ed. 2009)
- 3.On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen — Harold McGee
- 4.Sauces: Classical and Contemporary Sauce Making — James Peterson
Confidence: high
Notes
Temperature danger zone
Hollandaise sits at an uncomfortable intersection: it must be hot enough to remain fluid and food-safe, but raw egg yolks require caution above 70 °C. The USDA recommends eggs reach 71 °C for safety, while the sauce breaks irreversibly at that temperature. In professional kitchens, yolks are coaxed to 65–68 °C during the ribbon stage — enough to pasteurise partially (especially with the added acid) while preserving emulsification. For fully pasteurised yolks, use sous-vide-pasteurised eggs or commercial pasteurised yolks.
Clarified vs whole butter
Clarified butter is preferred because removing the milk solids (proteins and lactose) and water eliminates the two main breakage culprits: boiling water that disrupts the emulsion, and proteins that denature at high heat and clump. Whole butter, by contrast, contributes a richer, more complex flavour through its milk proteins and lactose — but requires slightly lower temperatures and produces a more fragile sauce. Many top chefs now use beurre noisette (browned butter, clarified after browning) for added nutty depth.