Chinese Ratios
Lo Bak Go (Turnip Cake, Radish to Rice Flour)
Also: law bak go, chai tow kway, radish cake, carrot cake (Singaporean name), wu bing
The ratio of grated daikon and its expressed liquid to rice flour determines whether lo bak go slices cleanly, holds its shape in the wok, and yields a tender, savory interior.
Lo bak go is a steamed-then-pan-fried dim sum cake made from grated daikon radish (lo bak), rice flour, and aromatics. The critical ratio is the total wet mass — grated radish plus its cooking liquid — to rice flour. Too little flour and the cake is fragile, collapses when sliced, and sticks in the pan. Too much flour and it turns dense and gummy, losing the translucent, soft interior that defines a good lo bak go. The standard ratio is approximately 3:1 (wet daikon mass to rice flour by weight), though the precise liquid-to-flour ratio after cooking the radish must be adjusted for the amount of water the daikon releases.
The proportions
- 600 g (about 3 parts)
- Daikon radish, peeled and grated — Coarse grate on a box grater; squeeze out excess water and reserve the liquid — both go back into the batter
- 200 g (about 1 part)
- Rice flour (not glutinous) — Plain rice flour only; glutinous rice flour makes an unpleasantly chewy, gluey cake
- As needed to reach 500–550 g total liquid
- Reserved daikon liquid — Supplement with water or light stock if the daikon was not very juicy; total liquid to flour ratio should be approximately 2.5:1 by weight
- 50–80 g combined
- Dried shrimp, lap cheong, and aromatics — Flavor compounds; do not significantly alter ratio but add moisture — sauté in oil before incorporating
- To taste
- Salt, sugar, white pepper, sesame oil — Typically 1.5 tsp salt, 0.5 tsp sugar, pinch of white pepper per 200 g rice flour
Method
Grate daikon and cook in a dry pan or with a splash of water until just softened and fragrant, about 5–7 minutes. Drain and reserve all liquid. Whisk rice flour into the cool daikon liquid to form a slurry without lumps. Stir in the warm cooked daikon and any sautéed aromatics. The batter should be thick but pourable — like a heavy pancake batter. Pour into an oiled loaf pan or bamboo steamer tray. Steam over high heat for 40–50 minutes until a skewer comes out clean and the surface is set and slightly translucent at the edges. Cool completely (ideally refrigerate overnight) before slicing into 1-cm slabs. Pan-fry in neutral oil over medium-high heat until deeply golden and crisp on both cut faces.
Tips
- Cooking the daikon before mixing it into the batter removes the sharp, raw radish smell and pre-softens the fibers, preventing a watery final cake.
- The reserved cooking liquid is the essential binder liquid — it carries dissolved radish starch that improves the final texture. Never discard it.
- The cake must be fully chilled (minimum 2 hours, preferably overnight) before slicing; attempting to slice while warm yields crumbling, sticky pieces.
- Use a very hot, lightly oiled pan for the final fry; insufficient heat means the cake steams rather than crisps and can disintegrate.
- A ratio test: freshly mixed batter should hold a slow ribbon when poured from a spoon — too stiff means not enough liquid; too runny means too much.
- Lap cheong (Chinese sausage) should be steamed or briefly microwaved before dicing and sautéing to render the fat and prevent hard, chewy pieces in the finished cake.
Variations
- XO sauce lo bak go
Same ratio base; XO sauce added to the aromatics phase and served as a condiment — does not alter the structural ratio
- Chai tow kway (Singapore/Malaysian stir-fried version)
Cubed rather than sliced; stir-fried with eggs and sweet soy; same base ratio, slightly looser batter acceptable because pieces are smaller and don't need to hold as thin slices
- Plain (white) lo bak go
No dried shrimp, lap cheong, or scallion; purity of ratio most visible — very common in Hong Kong as a contrast to the savory version
- Turnip cake with taro substitution
Replace up to 50% of daikon with grated taro; taro is drier and starchier — reduce rice flour by 10–15% to compensate
- Water chestnut cake (ma tai go)
Related dim sum cake using water chestnut starch instead of rice flour; different ratio but similar technique of slurry + steam + slice + fry
Related ratios
- Turnip Cake Slurry (Liquid to Rice Flour for Dim Sum Cakes)
The internal liquid-to-flour ratio within the batter itself sits around 2.5:1; this controls gelatinization and final starch set
- Congee (Water to Rice, 8:1 to 12:1)
Both are Chinese rice-based starched preparations where exact water-to-starch ratios control final body and texture
Appears in
References
- 1.Land of Fish and Rice — Fuchsia Dunlop
- 2.The Dim Sum Field Guide — Carolyn Phillips
- 3.All Under Heaven: Recipes from the 35 Cuisines of China — Carolyn Phillips
- 4.The Hakka Cookbook — Linda Lau Anusasananan
Confidence: high
Notes
Why sliceability depends on the ratio
Lo bak go must survive three forms: the steamed loaf, the cold-sliced slab, and the pan-fried piece. Each imposes structural requirements. Underflouring yields a cake that crumbles during slicing and falls apart in the pan. Overflouring yields a dense, gluey brick that does not develop the desired crisp exterior — its high starch content means the surface browns slowly and unevenly. The 3:1 daikon-to-flour ratio by weight is calibrated to survive all three stages cleanly.
The daikon moisture variable
Daikon water content varies significantly with season and provenance — winter daikon from Japan (where daikon is bred for sweetness and moisture) releases more liquid than summer or Chinese-grown varieties. This is why skilled dim sum cooks do not measure liquid in advance; they cook the daikon first, measure what comes out, and calibrate the total liquid to flour ratio from that starting point. A recipe that specifies a fixed total water volume without accounting for daikon moisture variation will produce inconsistent results.