Stocks & broths
double consommé
A consommé that has been clarified twice using egg‑white‑and‑meat rafts, yielding exceptional clarity, a silky texture, and concentrated flavor. The double clarification removes every trace of suspended protein and fat, producing a broth of almost crystalline transparency and remarkable depth. It is the purest expression of raft‑clarification cookery and serves as a benchmark of classical technique.
The formula
125 g ground lean beef + 2 egg whites (≈60 g) + 25 g mirepoix : 1 L consommé base
The raft mass (ground meat, egg whites, aromatics) typically constitutes roughly 20–30 % of the liquid weight (i.e., 200–300 g per liter). Each clarification pass improves clarity and flavor integration. Classical double consommé uses two successive rafts; some traditions clarify once, rest, then clarify again.
Identity
- Must be clarified using a cooked egg‑white‑and‑meat raft
- Must achieve optical clarity — a spoon dipped in reads print beneath
- Must have body from gelatin extracted during stock‑making, not from added starch or gums
- Must carry a distinct, pure flavor of the chosen meat without cloudiness or bitterness
- Must be seasoned to a barely perceptible salinity, as its role is as a foundation, not a finished dish
- Must be fat‑free — all lipid is captured and discarded with the raft
Ingredients
| Base | pre‑made brown or white consommé (beef, chicken, or game) | The starting stock must be well‑reduced (3–4 % gelatin) and already seasoned. Two rounds of clarification cannot rescue a flat or poorly made base. |
| Binder | ground lean beef (or chicken, game) | Provides the primary protein structure of the raft and contributes its own gelatin and flavor. Beef is standard; poultry and game produce lighter variants. |
| Binder | egg whites | The structural matrix of the raft. Provide air‑incorporation capacity and coagulate to trap impurities. Two egg whites per liter is the classical proportion. |
| Aromatics | mirepoix (onion, carrot, celery — 2:1:1 by weight) | Shallots or white onion for a classic white consommé; brown mirepoix (unpeeled, roasted) for brown. Roughly 25 g total per liter. |
| Aromatics | tomato purée (for brown consommé) | A small amount enriches color and umami depth. Omit for white consommé. |
| Liquid | cold consommé base | Liquid must be cold when the raw raft ingredients are stirred in. Hot liquid would begin coagulating the egg whites prematurely before proper incorporation. |
| Seasoning | salt, peppercorns, bouquet garni | Seasoning must be light — the consommé will be reduced and seasoned further when used as a component. |
Method
- 1Combine cold stock with raw raft ingredients: ground meat, egg whites, finely diced mirepoix (and tomato if making brown), bouquet garni, and a light seasoning. Whisk until evenly distributed.Cold liquid prevents premature coagulation. The raw meat and egg whites must be fully hydrated and evenly suspended before heat is applied to form an effective raft.
- 2Place the pot over medium heat. Stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, bring slowly to a simmer (82–85 °C), watching for the raft to rise gradually.Slow heating allows proteins to denature gradually and bond with impurities and fat. Rapid heating causes the raft to set unevenly and may not capture all suspended matter.
- 3Once simmering, stop all stirring. The egg‑white‑and‑meat raft will rise to the surface as a cohesive, porous mat. Poke 2–3 small holes through the raft to allow liquid to circulate.The raft acts as a filter: liquid passes through the porous coagulated protein, trapping particles. Holes let dirty liquid circulate through and be purified; continued stirring would destroy the raft's structure.
- 4Maintain a bare simmer (85–90 °C) for 45–60 minutes without agitation. The raft remains intact on the surface while clarity improves below. Discard the spent raft.Extended gentle heat allows maximum clarification. No agitation prevents the raft from breaking apart and releasing trapped impurities back into the liquid.
- 5Line a fine‑mesh strainer with several layers of damp cheesecloth. Carefully ladle or pour the clarified liquid through, leaving the sediment at the bottom of the pot untouched. Do not disturb the bottom sediment.Straining through cloth catches any remaining fine particles. Pouring gently avoids re‑suspending sediment. This is the first clarification pass.
- 6Repeat steps 1–5 with a fresh raft to produce a double consommé. The second raft is typically made with slightly less meat (80–100 g per liter) since the liquid is already clear.The second raft removes any residual haze and further concentrates flavor. Two passes produce the characteristic jewel‑like transparency that defines true double consommé.
- 7Skim all surface fat. Season lightly with salt. Strain once more through fresh cloth before storage or use.Final degreasing ensures a perfectly clean mouthfeel. The last strain guarantees absolute clarity for plating.
Techniques that matter
raft clarification
The defining technique: a floating mat of coagulated egg‑white protein traps suspended solids, fat droplets, and impurities as broth circulates through its porous structure. The raft is discarded; the liquid below becomes the clarified consommé.
protein coagulation control
Egg‑white proteins coagulate between 60–70 °C; meat proteins around 60–65 °C. Slow heating to 82–85 °C allows a gradual, controlled set that forms an even, permeable raft rather than a tight, impermeable skin.
no‑agitation discipline
Once the raft sets, any stirring breaks its structure and allows captured impurities to re‑emulsify into the liquid. This is the most demanding aspect of the technique.
cloth straining
Cheesecloth (4–6 layers) removes particles too fine to be captured by the raft alone. Straining while hot prevents gelatinous residue from building up in the cloth.
Variations & derivatives
consommé madrilèneFrance, 19th c.
Brown consommé finished with tomato, sometimes with sherry. Served hot as an appetizer or cold as a summer soup.
consommé célestineFrance
Double consommé served with thin, pan‑dried crepes cut into fine julienne (tapis de célestine). The crepes soften slightly in the hot broth.
consommé diableFrance
White or brown consommé with a garnish of small quenelles or dice of poultry, finished with a liaison of egg yolk and cream.
consommé printanierFrance
White or brown consommé with a spring vegetable garnish (peas, asparagus tips, carrot diamonds, French beans). Vegetables are cooked separately and added at service.
consommé julienneFrance
Consommé with a fine julienne of root vegetables (carrot, turnip, celery, leek white) as the sole garnish.
consommé au champagneFrance, modern
Double consommé finished with a small measure of Champagne or dry white wine, served as an elegant first course.
Used in these dishes
Substitutions
- double raft clarification → single egg‑white raft + gelatin fining — A single raft with fining agents (isinglass, gelatin) can produce a clear broth faster, but lacks the depth and character a second raft provides.changes result
- ground beef raft → ground chicken or turkey raft — Poultry produces a lighter, less assertive raft. Suitable for white consommé; acceptable for brown but slightly less flavorful.
- egg whites → agar‑agar gel (whisked into cold liquid) — Agar sets more firmly and releases liquid unevenly. Not a classical approach; clarity can be achieved but texture of the raft differs.changes result
- homemade double consommé → pre‑packaged canned/bottled consommé — Commercial products are acceptable for quick service but lack the depth, clarity, and purity of a properly made double consommé. Acceptable only as a shortcut.changes result
Troubleshooting
Cloudy or hazy consommé after the raft is removed
The egg‑white raft was disturbed or broken during cooking, or the stock was introduced to heat too quickly before the proteins could form an even matrix → Strain through several layers of cheesecloth. If haze persists, prepare a fresh raft with the strained (but still flavorful) liquid and repeat the clarification. In future, ensure slow initial heating and absolutely no stirring once simmering begins.
Bitter or astringent flavor
The mirepoix was over‑roasted (brown consommé) or cooked too aggressively, extracting harsh tannins from onion skins or overly caramelized vegetables. Alternatively, the stock base was over‑reduced before clarification. → Dilute with a small amount of light stock or water. Finish with a tiny knob of butter or a few drops of cream to soften the bitter notes. In future, control mirepoix toasting precisely.
Raft sinks or fails to form a cohesive mat
Insufficient egg whites relative to meat, or liquid brought to a boil too rapidly before proteins could coagulate gradually. Fat in the stock can also prevent proper raft formation. → Skim all fat from the stock before clarifying. Add 1–2 extra egg whites per liter and bring to temperature more slowly. A collapsed raft can sometimes be rescued by whisking in additional egg white and repeating the simmer.
Flat, flavorless consommé
The original stock was poorly flavored to begin with (insufficient reduction, too much water, under‑seasoned bones). Double clarification concentrates flavor but cannot create it from nothing. → Reduce the clarified liquid further over medium heat to concentrate flavor. Season carefully. In future, ensure the starting stock is well‑made and properly reduced before clarification.