Cold sauces & condiments
mojo
mojo criollo · A cold emulsified condiment of Cuban origin built on raw mashed garlic whisked with citrus juice and olive oil into a pale, fragrant suspension. The acid denatures garlic proteins and helps stabilize the oil-in-water emulsion, yielding a sauce that is simultaneously sharp, unctuous, and intensely aromatic. It is the defining seasoning of Cuban roast pork and a workhorse for brightening root vegetables, grains, and fried foods.
The formula
40 g raw garlic : 240 g citrus juice : 65–80 g olive oil : 3 g salt (≈ 1 head : 1 cup juice : 60–80 ml oil)
Citrus-to-oil ratio is approximately 3–4:1 by volume for a pourable, emulsified result. If substituting sweet orange for sour orange, add 1–2 tbsp lime juice to restore acidity (target ~6–8 g/L total acids).
Identity
- Raw garlic crushed to a paste — never cooked or toasted
- Citrus acid as primary liquid — sour orange (or orange + lime blend)
- Extra-virgin olive oil emulsified cold — no heat
- No egg, no starch, no thickening agent — emulsion is garlic-protein-stabilized
- Seasoned with salt only — no herbs, spices, or vinegar in the base
Ingredients
| Aromatics | Garlic, peeled | 1 large head ≈ 8–10 cloves, ~40 g. Older white garlic bruises purple and has more sulfur compounds; spring garlic is milder and higher in water, making a looser paste. Either works. |
| Acid | Sour orange juice (or ¾ orange juice + ¼ lime juice) | Sour orange provides ~6–8 g/L combined citric and malic acid vs. ~5 g/L for Valencia orange; lime adds ~7 g/L citric acid. Target total acidity ~6–8 g/L. Without lime backup the emulsion is weaker. |
| Fat | Extra-virgin olive oil, mild-fruity | 60–80 ml. Strong grassy oils compete with garlic; a medium-intensity oil lets garlic lead. |
| Seasoning | Fine sea salt | 3 g (½ tsp). Salt draws moisture from crushed garlic cells, releasing allicin and water-soluble aromatics that aid emulsification. |
| Flavor | Dried Mexican oregano (optional) | A pinch of Mexican oregano (Lippia species) adds thymol-like notes absent in Mediterranean oregano. Traditional in some preparations. |
Method
- 1Crush garlic with salt on a cutting board using the flat of a knife, then scrape into a fine paste.Shearing the garlic cell walls releases alliinase and alliin; salt draws out intracellular water, creating a wet paste that disperses in the acid rather than floating as chunks.
- 2Transfer garlic paste to a non-reactive bowl (glass or ceramic). Whisk in citrus juice vigorously for 30 seconds.Citric acid lowers pH, denaturing garlic proteins (mostly alliinase and peroxidase) and partially inactivating the enzyme that would otherwise convert alliin to allicin rapidly. The acidic aqueous phase also extracts sulfur volatiles.
- 3Add olive oil in a thin, steady stream while whisking constantly at moderate speed.Garlic cell debris and denatured proteins adsorb at the oil-water interface, acting as natural emulsifiers (similar to mustard in vinaigrette). Slow incorporation prevents coalescence and yields droplets fine enough for an opaque but pourable sauce.
- 4Taste and adjust salt; rest 5 minutes for flavors to marry.Allicin continues forming during rest; sulfur compounds (diallyl disulfide, allyl methyl sulfide) reach equilibrium. The emulsion also stabilizes further as proteins hydrate fully.
- 5Use immediately or store. If oil separates on standing, shake or whisk briefly — it re-emulsifies easily.No stabilizers are present, so separation is thermodynamically favored over time. Mechanical re-incorporation is sufficient because the garlic-protein interface remains active.
Techniques that matter
Crush-and-paste garlic technique
Avoids food-processor bruising (creates off-flavors from excessive shear) and preserves cell-wall debris as functional emulsifiers.
Emulsification by whisking (cold, no heat)
No heat is applied — unlike a cooked garlic sauce (ajillo) — preserving raw garlic's sharp, sulfurous character and enzymatic activity.
Acid-protein stabilization
Citric acid denatures garlic proteins so they adsorb at the oil-water interface, reducing interfacial tension. This is analogous to egg-white foams: heat-coagulated proteins trap air; here, acid-denatured proteins stabilize oil droplets.
Emulsion maintenance without gums or starch
Garlic cell-wall fragments (pectin, hemicellulose) and denatured proteins are sufficient emulsifying agents for this oil load. Heat or prolonged enzyme activity would destroy the emulsion.
Variations & derivatives
Mojo Rojo (red mojo)Canary Islands, Caribbean Latin America
Adds annatto paste (achiote) for color and earthy, nutty flavor; sometimes includes morita or piquin chili for heat. Oil ratio stays similar; acid may increase slightly to balance annatto's fat content. Regionally distinct from Cuban mojo.
Mojo Verde (green mojo)Canary Islands
Substitutes parsley, cilantro, or watercress for the citrus component, using white wine vinegar or lime juice. Herb chlorophyll provides color but the preparation differs fundamentally from Cuban citrus-based mojo. Included here for regional completeness.
Mojo with habaneroYucatán and Cuban Florida
Adds ½–1 habanero (seeds removed) mashed with garlic for heat; capsaicin is oil-soluble so it integrates fully rather than floating.
Used in these dishes
Substitutions
- Sour orange juice → ¾ orange juice + ¼ fresh lime juice — Reconstitutes the citric:malic acid balance; sour orange has ~20% malic acid vs. negligible in sweet orange.
- Extra-virgin olive oil → Half avocado oil, half light olive oil — Avocado oil has similar monounsaturated fatty acid profile and higher smoke point; may slightly reduce garlic pungency.
- Garlic → Shallots (2–3 shallots ≈ 1 head garlic) — Milder, sweeter alliums; less allicin punch. Emulsification still works but the characteristic sharp garlic note is lost.changes result
Troubleshooting
Emulsion breaks and oil pools on surface within minutes
Too much oil added too fast (coalescence), or garlic paste not thoroughly crushed (large cell clumps lack surface area to stabilize droplets) → Whisk in remaining oil more slowly; or blend briefly with immersion blender to re-shear the garlic debris and re-establish the interface.
Sauce tastes harsh, metallic, or overly sulfurous
Garlic was crushed in a food processor (bruising generates too much allicin at once) or sauce was held too long (>4 hours) allowing sulfur volatiles to concentrate → Use knife-crushed garlic; use sauce within 2 hours or refrigerate. The harsh note dissipates after a 5–10 minute rest in acid.
Sauce is too thin, almost watery
Too much citrus juice relative to oil; oil ratio below 1:4 (oil:juice) makes a weak emulsion → Add 1–2 tbsp more olive oil while whisking; the sauce should coat a spoon lightly, not run off immediately.