Stocks & broths
remouillage
remouillage · A secondary stock made by simmering already-used bones and aromatics in fresh water to extract their remaining soluble proteins, gelatin, and trace minerals. Remouillage is the practice of maximum-resource cooking: the same bones that yielded a primary fond are coaxed for a second, weaker extraction. It is not a substitute for proper stock—it is a byproduct elevated to utility. The result lacks the body and clarity of a first extraction but carries enough dissolved collagen and background flavor to enrich sauces, braising liquids, risottos, and soups.
The formula
2–2.5 L water : 1 kg deglassed, rinsed bones
Same water volume as a primary stock, but bones have already surrendered most gelatin and aromatic compounds. Expect 30–40% less body than a fond blanc or fond brun made from raw bones. No fat layer will form.
Identity
- Made exclusively from bones that have already produced a primary stock
- Simmered gently, never boiled—active boiling clouds the liquid and extracts bitter compounds from denatured proteins
- No seasoning added—remouillage is a neutral foundation; seasoning happens in the dish that uses it
- Strained through a fine-mesh tamis immediately after cooking
- Contains no fat—the fat was rendered and removed during the first stock's production
- Stored refrigerated and used within 48 hours or frozen
Ingredients
| Base | Deglassed, rinsed bones from primary stock production | Bones should be rinsed briefly in cold water to remove surface albumin and any attached fat. They retain perhaps 10–15% of their original gelatin content. |
| Liquid | Cold water | Always start in cold water to ensure even, gradual extraction. Starting with hot water causes surface proteins to denature and lock in interior flavor compounds. |
| Aromatics | Standard bouquet garni (leek, celery, thyme, bay, parsley stems) | Optional but recommended at half the quantity used for a primary stock. Carrots are typically omitted as they contribute sugars already depleted from first extraction. |
| Aromatics | Onion or shallot (optional) | Quartered, unpeeled onion adds mineral sweetness. Classical remouillage often omits alliums entirely. |
Method
- 1Deglaze the primary stock pot with 500 ml cold water, scraping all caramelized fond from the bottom.The fond contains concentrated Maillard-reaction products and gelatin that settled during the first stock. Capturing this improves remouillage body.
- 2Rinse the spent bones briefly under cold running water, shaking off loose albumin.Removes surface proteins that would cloud the second extraction and bitter compounds from denatured tissue.
- 3Combine bones and cold water (2–2.5 L per kg bones) in a stockpot. Add half-strength bouquet garni.Cold water start ensures slow, even extraction rather than surface protein coagulation. Half aromatics because most volatile compounds were extracted in the first stock.
- 4Bring slowly to a bare simmer (82–88°C), skimming any foam that rises for the first 15–20 minutes.Gentle heat prevents turbulence that would cloud the liquid. Barely moving water extracts slowly without agitating suspended proteins.
- 5Maintain at bare simmer for 3–4 hours. Do not stir or disturb.Long, undisturbed simmering allows remaining collagen to dissolve (gelatinization) and trace minerals to extract. Stirring creates turbulence and cloudiness.
- 6Strain through a fine-mesh tamis lined with damp cheesecloth. Cool rapidly in an ice bath.Fine straining removes all particulate matter. Ice-bath cooling prevents the danger zone (5–60°C) where bacterial growth accelerates.
Techniques that matter
Deglazing the pot
Captures the fond—the caramelized proteins and gelatin adhered to the stockpot—that represents the most concentrated flavor remaining from the primary stock. This liquid is the secret to a remouillage with actual personality.
Bare simmer (not boil)
Boiling causes turbulence that suspends fine protein particles, creating a cloudy, bitter stock. A barely moving surface (82–88°C) allows impurities to rise and be skimmed while extracting gently.
Single-direction extraction
Unlike a primary stock where bones are blanched first to remove impurities, remouillage uses bones in their current state. The first stock already purged most blood and albumin. Rinsing only the surface prevents excessive impurity introduction.
Variations & derivatives
Remouillage de volailleClassical French
Chicken or poultry bones produce the mildest, most neutral remouillage. Used as a neutral braising liquid or for risotto fondo.
Remouillage de boeufClassical French
Beef or veal bones yield a faintly mineral, darker remouillage. Often combined with wine reduction deglazing for richer color and flavor.
Reblous (Provençal)Provence, France
The Provençal term for remouillage, particularly associated with daube and other long-braised preparations. Typically includes a sachet with dried orange peel and fennel seed.
Third stock (troisième eau)Classical French
A third extraction possible from very beefy bones. At this point the liquid is nearly plain water with trace minerals. Used only for cooking pasta water or steaming.
Used in these dishes
Substitutions
- Remouillage → Water + commercial chicken or beef base (1 tsp per liter) — Reconstituted base mimics the mineral content but lacks the natural balance of extracted collagen and trace compounds. Add a pinch of gelatin powder if body is critical.changes result
- Remouillage → Primary stock (fond blanc or fond brun) — A 1:1 substitute, but wasteful—the entire point of remouillage is economy. If remouillage quality is insufficient for the application, use primary stock and accept the cost.
- Remouillage → White wine + water mixture (50/50) — Acceptable only for deglazing or quick braises where the remouillage serves purely as moisture. Fails entirely where gelatin body is needed.changes result
Troubleshooting
Remouillage tastes completely flat—barely better than plain water
The primary stock bones are genuinely depleted; bones were blanched aggressively in the first stock, extracting everything; or insufficient deglazing of the original pot fond → Always deglaze the primary pot—the fond is the concentrated essence. If bones were blanched hard in the first stock, remouillage will be weak regardless. Accept the limitation and use the liquid only where water would suffice.
Stock is cloudy or murky
Water was brought to a full boil; bones were not rinsed; stock was stirred or disturbed during cooking → Full boils must be reduced to bare simmer immediately. Cloudiness from disturbance cannot be corrected without re-straining through cheesecloth, which loses volume. Prevention is the only reliable cure.
Off or bitter flavor—reminiscent of boiled meat smell
Simmering time was excessive (beyond 4 hours); bones were from old or poorly handled raw product; or the stock was stored uncovered and absorbed refrigerator odors → Do not exceed 4 hours—after this point, extracted proteins begin to break down into bitter peptides. Store in sealed containers. If bitter, use only in highly seasoned dishes where the flavor will be masked.
No gelatin set when cooled
Bones were already completely depleted of collagen after the first extraction; or the remouillage was boiled hard, denaturing any gelatin present → This is normal for remouillage from heavily extracted bones. If body is essential, add 1–2 sheets of gelatin per liter, or reduce the remouillage by half to concentrate remaining gelatin.