Cold sauces & condiments
Tartar Sauce
A cold emulsified condiment built on a mayonnaise base, finished with brunoise-cut pickles, capers, and fine herbs. Classical French sauce tartare is not simply seasoned mayonnaise — the add-ins are integral to its identity, not afterthoughts.
The formula
1 yolk + 10% mustard : 500–1000 ml oil : 20–25 ml acid, +15–20% pickles/herbs
Scale the base by weight. For ~610 g finished sauce: 1 egg yolk (~20 g), 10 g Dijon mustard, 500 ml neutral oil (~460 g), 20 ml white wine vinegar, 80 g cornichon brunoise, 20 g capers, 12 g herb chiffonade. All add-ins incorporated after emulsion is complete. Pickle brunoise: 3 mm dice. Herb chiffonade: 2 mm. Final seasoning adjusted after add-ins are folded in.
Identity
- A stable oil-in-water emulsion — no standing oil, no separation
- Brunoise of firm pickles (cornichons or gherkins) — not minced, not pureed
- Capers added whole or roughly chopped — their texture is essential
- Fine herbs bound into the sauce, not scattered decoratively on top
- Seasoned with Dijon mustard, salt, and acid before the add-ins are folded in
- Served cold or at cellar temperature — never chilled to stiffness
Ingredients
| Base | Egg yolk + Dijon mustard | Mustard acts as primary emulsifier alongside lecithin in the yolk. Ratio: 1 yolk + 10% its weight in mustard per 500 ml oil. |
| Fat | Neutral vegetable oil (sunflower, canola, or light olive) | 500 ml for ~610 g finished sauce. Neutral oil keeps the emulsion clean; strong olive oil overwhelms the delicate add-ins. |
| Acid | White wine vinegar or fresh lemon juice | 20–25 ml per 500 ml oil. Added incrementally during emulsion to stabilize and season. Lemon juice gives brighter acidity; vinegar is more classical. |
| Aromatics | Cornichons or small gherkins (brunoise, 3 mm) | 80 g for ~610 g sauce. Wipe dry on paper towel before adding — wet pickles dilute the emulsion. |
| Aromatics | Capers, roughly chopped | 20 g for ~610 g sauce. Rough chop preserves texture; a few whole capers are acceptable for visual interest. |
| Aromatics | Flat-leaf parsley, chervil, tarragon (fine chiffonade) | 8–12 g total herbs for ~610 g sauce. Chervil and tarragon are the classical herbs; parsley alone makes a less complex sauce. |
| Seasoning | Fine sea salt, white pepper | Added to emulsion before oil. Final seasoning adjusted after add-ins are folded in. |
Method
- 1Make the base mayonnaise: whisk egg yolk and mustard with a pinch of salt until pale and slightly thickened (2 minutes).Disperses yolk proteins and mustard solids, creating an emulsion matrix. Yolk is the primary emulsifier.
- 2Add oil very slowly — 2–3 drops at first, whisking constantly — until the emulsion seeds (thick, glossy ribbon). This takes 50–100 ml oil.Slow initial incorporation prevents the oil from pooling before proteins can coat the droplets. A stable seed is non-negotiable.
- 3Once seeded, add remaining oil in a thin, steady stream while whisking briskly. Add vinegar or lemon juice halfway through.Continuous whisking keeps protein films wrapping each droplet. Acid denatures surface proteins slightly, tightening the emulsion and brightening flavor.
- 4Season the finished base with salt, white pepper, and 1–2 tsp Dijon mustard. Whisk to integrate.Mustard reinforcement strengthens the emulsion and sharpens the base before add-ins dilute its seasoning.
- 5Fold in the pickle brunoise, chopped capers, and herb chiffonade with a rubber spatula until evenly distributed.Folding (not stirring) maintains emulsion integrity. Even distribution ensures each portion tastes complete.
- 6Adjust final seasoning: taste, then add salt, acid (vinegar drop), or mustard to balance. Rest refrigerated 30 minutes before serving.Flavors meld and season distributes evenly after resting. Tartar sauce is always better the next day.
Techniques that matter
Emulsification (oil-in-water)
Yolk proteins adsorb at oil-water interfaces, forming viscoelastic films that prevent droplet coalescence. Mustard reinforces this film and acts as a secondary emulsifier.
Brunoise cut
3 mm dice ensures pickle pieces are large enough to taste and provide textural contrast, but small enough to suspend evenly and distribute in every bite.
Folding
A rubber spatula drawn across the bottom and up the sides incorporates fragile add-ins without deflating the emulsion — unlike stirring, which applies shear stress at the surface.
Variations & derivatives
RavigoteFrance (Provence)
Uses a vinaigrette base instead of mayonnaise, with more assertive herbs (tarragon, chervil, chives, basil), shallots, and capers. Served with grilled fish.
Sauce rémouladeFrance (Nord)
Mayonnaise heavily seasoned with Dijon mustard, sometimes with anchovy, and traditionally served with pork and boiled meats. Heavier mustard profile distinguishes it from tartare.
German tartar sauceGermany
Includes finely minced raw onion and additional pickles. Often used with Tafelspitz and boiled beef.
American tartar sauceUnited States
Sweet pickle relish (not brunoise) is the dominant pickle element. May include finely minced onion, hard-boiled egg, or celery. The canonical fish-and-chips accompaniment.
Used in these dishes
Substitutions
- Cornichons → Sweet pickle relish (American style) — Changes texture entirely — relish is minced, not diced; flavor shifts from sharp-tart to sweet-sour. Acceptable in informal contexts; not for classical French style.changes result
- Egg yolk → Pasteurized liquid yolk or egg-white-free emulsions (vegan mayo) — Commercial pasteurized yolk works identically. Vegan mayo is an emulsified starch base — works mechanically but lacks the richness and classical character.
- Neutral oil → Extra-virgin olive oil — Strong grassy, peppery flavor overwhelms the delicate pickled aromatics. Use at most 30% olive oil blended with neutral oil if a subtler richness is desired.changes result
Troubleshooting
Emulsion breaks (oil pooling, sauce splits)
Oil added too quickly, emulsion was never properly seeded, or acid added too early in large quantity before proteins could stabilize the interface. → Start a fresh yolk in a clean bowl. With the broken sauce sitting nearby, whisk the fresh yolk and add the broken sauce drop by drop as if it were oil — this rescues the broken emulsion into a new matrix. Alternatively, start fresh and fold in the add-ins from the broken batch.
Sauce tastes flat or under-seasoned
Seasoning was adjusted before add-ins were folded in; the pickles and herbs dilute the base seasoning by 15–20%. → Always re-taste and re-season after all add-ins are incorporated. The final adjustment is the most important.
Pickles make the sauce watery after 24 hours
Wet pickles were added without drying; excess liquid migrates into the emulsion and destabilizes it over time. → Pat pickles completely dry on paper towels before brunoise. A brief roll in a clean towel removes surface moisture. Adding 1–2 tsp Dijon or a few drops of lemon juice after resting helps re-tighten the emulsion.