Spice & Flavor Techniques

Tempering (Eggs)

Also: egg tempering, gradual temperature equalization, liaising eggs

The process of slowly raising egg temperature by adding hot liquid in small increments before combining, preventing the proteins from scrambling.

Classical French culinary vocabulary; 'to temper' from Old French 'temprer' (to moderate, to regulate) — the same root as 'temperature'

Definition

Egg proteins — primarily ovalbumin and conalbumin — begin to denature and coagulate irreversibly at around 63–70 °C (145–158 °F). When cold or room-temperature eggs are added directly to a hot liquid, the outer proteins hit high heat instantly and seize into rubbery curds before they can disperse. Tempering prevents this by gradually increasing the egg temperature: a small ladleful of hot liquid (cream, milk, broth, or sauce) is slowly whisked into the beaten eggs or yolks, raising their temperature incrementally. This is repeated two or three times before the warmed egg mixture is returned to the main pot over low-to-medium heat and stirred constantly. The technique is essential to classic custards (crème anglaise, pastry cream, lemon curd), to carbonara (which relies on residual pasta heat rather than a direct ladle pour), and to enriching soups and stews with an egg-yolk-and-cream liaison. The slow temperature equalization allows the proteins to set evenly and gently, producing a smooth, glossy, thickened result rather than a scrambled one.

In use

He whisked two ladlefuls of the hot cream into the beaten yolks before stirring the mixture back into the saucepan, tempering carefully so the crème anglaise stayed silky.

See also

Related terms

LiaisonCrème AnglaisePastry CreamCustardLemon CurdCarbonaraProtein Denaturation

References

  1. 1.On Food and Cooking — Harold McGee (2004)
  2. 2.The Professional Pastry Chef — Bo Friberg (4th ed., 2002)
  3. 3.Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking — Myhrvold, Young & Bilet (2011)
  4. 4.The French Laundry Cookbook — Thomas Keller (1999)

Confidence: high

Notes

The safe zone

The goal is to bring egg yolks to 70–75 °C (158–167 °F) gently. Below 63 °C, the mixture stays fluid and will not thicken; above 85 °C, curdling becomes likely. A double boiler (bain marie) provides an extra layer of temperature control when making delicate custards on the stovetop.

Whole eggs vs. yolks

Egg whites begin to coagulate at lower temperatures than yolks (around 60 °C vs. 65–70 °C), making whole-egg tempering faster to go wrong. Most classic sauces and custards call for yolks only, where the additional fat from the yolk helps emulsify and moderate protein seizing.