Egg Doneness
Crème Brûlée Set Point
Also: baked custard set, custard doneness, 79°C custard
The moment a baked cream-and-yolk custard gels just enough to hold its shape when cold, while staying quivering and unctuous at center.
Crème brûlée is done when its internal temperature reaches approximately 79°C (175°F) and the center retains a pronounced jiggle — sometimes described as a 'coin-sized wobble.' At this point egg yolk proteins have partially coagulated and the fat from heavy cream has emulsified into a loose gel. The custard will appear underdone in the oven but firms to a silky, sliceable set after chilling for several hours.
In photos



What happens
Egg yolk proteins (primarily phosvitin, lipovitellins, and low-density lipoprotein complexes) begin denaturing around 65°C and fully coagulate between 70–85°C. At 79°C the network is dense enough to suspend the cream's fat globules in a semi-solid matrix, but loose enough that gentle agitation causes visible movement. The fat-to-protein ratio in a classic crème brûlée (heavy cream, no whites) keeps the gel tender: if baked past 85°C, proteins over-set, the custard curdles, and whey syneresis (weeping) begins. Chilling tightens the gel further via hydrogen bonding as temperature drops.
What to look for
- The outer 3–4 cm of the ramekin is completely still; only the center 4–5 cm wobbles as a cohesive mass
- Surface appears matte and barely set, not liquid-shiny
- Edges pull ever so slightly from the ramekin walls
- No visible bubbling or puffing at the surface
- A gentle tap produces a single slow oscillation at center, not a sloshing wave
How to check
- Insert an instant-read thermometer at a 45° angle into the center of the custard; aim for 79°C (175°F)
- Jiggle test: tap the side of the baking dish — center coin should wobble in unison, not ripple
- Spoon edge test: touch the surface near the edge lightly; it should feel set and not cling
- Visual: the custard should have risen slightly at edges and have no liquid pooling around the perimeter
Food safety
Carryover & resting
Baked custards carry over very gently — expect 1–2°C rise after leaving the oven, primarily in the outer zone. Remove from the water bath promptly and let the ramekins cool at room temperature before refrigerating for a minimum of 2 hours (4 hours preferred) to allow full set.
The science behind it
- Egg yolk coagulation
The primary gelling mechanism; yolk proteins set between 65–85°C
- Bain-marie baking
Water bath moderates oven heat to prevent temperature spikes above 85°C that curdle the custard
Weeping of liquid from over-set custard when proteins shrink and expel water
- Carryover cooking
Minimal in custards due to low thermal mass; still reason to pull at slight jiggle
- Crème caramel set point
Similar target temperature; differs in using whole eggs for a firmer, demoldable gel
Appears in
References
- 1.On Food and Cooking — Harold McGee
- 2.The Art of the Tart — Tamasin Day-Lewis
- 3.Modernist Cuisine — Myhrvold, Young, Bilet (Vol. 4, Hydrocolloids & Emulsification)
- 4.Professional Baking — Wayne Gisslen (7th ed.)
Confidence: high
Notes
Water bath depth matters
The water in the bain-marie should reach halfway up the ramekin sides. Too shallow and the bottom over-sets before the top; too deep and steam condenses on the surface, creating a skin. The bath also acts as a heat sink, maintaining oven temperature stability around 160°C (325°F) even when the door is opened.
Chill before torching
The crème brûlée must be fully chilled and firm before the sugar crust is applied. A cold, dense surface can withstand the intense 1,000°C+ flame of a kitchen torch long enough to caramelize the sugar without warming the custard beneath. Attempting to brûlée a warm custard risks melting it.