Flavoured fats & thickeners
Bagoong
Bagoong · A traditional Filipino fermented paste made from small shrimp (alamang/krill) or small fish, cured with salt and fermented in open clay pots under the sun for weeks to as long as two years. The slow lactic/enzymatic fermentation produces a thick, pungent, deeply savory condiment that functions both as a table seasoning and as a foundational flavor base (akin to a 'flavoured thickener') in Filipino cooking.
The formula
1 part salt : 3 parts shrimp/krill (25% salt : 75% shrimp, by weight)
For whole small-fish bagoong a 10% brine wash is used to rinse excess surface salt before re-packing; angkak (red yeast rice) added for color in commercial bagoong.
Identity
- Filipino fermented seafood paste
- Made from whole small shrimp (alamang) or small fish, not pureed
- Salt-cured and sun-fermented in open clay pots (traditional)
- Fermentation window spans weeks to ~2 years
- Dense, pungent aroma with concentrated umami and salinity
- Functions as both condiment and foundational cooking ingredient
Ingredients
| Base | Fresh small shrimp (alamang/krill) or small whole fish (e.g., dilis, anchovies) | The protein substrate that ferments into the paste; fresh, just-caught (hibe) is traditional. |
| Seasoning | Coarse sea salt | Draws moisture, inhibits spoilage bacteria, and selects for halophilic fermentation; typically ~25% of shrimp weight. |
| Culture | Ambient lactic/enzymatic fermentation | No starter added; wild microbes on the seafood and salt-aged clay drive the cure. |
| Flavor | Vinegar (optional) | Some home recipes add a splash to balance the funk and extend shelf life. |
| Flavor | Angkak / red yeast rice (Monascus purpureus) | Used to tint commercial bagoong reddish-pink; not required in traditional sun-fermented versions. |
Method
- 1Rinse and drain fresh shrimp/krill (or small fish) to remove debris and excess water.Cleans the substrate without stripping the natural microflora needed for fermentation.
- 2Massage/mix the seafood with coarse salt at ~25% salt by weight until the salt draws liquid and the mass becomes homogeneous.Salt extracts moisture (creating its own brine), selects for salt-tolerant fermentative microbes, and denatures proteins that will break down into umami-rich peptides.
- 3Pack firmly into sterilized glass jars or open clay pots, pressing to submerge the solids under their own brine.An anaerobic, salt-saturated environment suppresses spoilage organisms while allowing the desired slow fermentation.
- 4Cover loosely and set in direct sun by day, bringing inside or covering at night, repeating the sun/air cycle for several days to weeks.Traditional sun-drying-then-repacking concentrates the paste and accelerates enzymatic breakdown; UV also discourages surface spoilage.
- 5Continue curing in a cool, shaded spot for several weeks up to 1–2 years, skimming any surface film and stirring occasionally.Extended aging deepens umami, softens bones/shell in the fish version, and develops the characteristic pungent aroma.
- 6(Optional) Add angkak steeped in a little warm water to dye the paste reddish-pink, or stir in vinegar for a milder tang.Color and acidity are finishing touches added near the end of curing to adjust appearance and flavor for use as a condiment.
Techniques that matter
Salt-driven natural fermentation
Pure-salt cure with no starter reliably produces a stable, shelf-stable paste even in tropical climates.
Sun-warming cycles
Repeated sun exposure concentrates solids, encourages enzymatic autolysis, and was traditionally relied upon for sanitation.
Submerged-in-brine packing
Keeping solids below the liquid line prevents oxidative spoilage and surface mold.
Foot-massage / hand-kneading (traditional)
Mechanically ruptures cell walls to release enzymes and salt-absorbing surfaces, speeding proteolysis.
Variations & derivatives
Bagoong AlamangNationwide (Tagalog regions)
Shrimp/krill version; thick, chunky, pinkish paste.
Bagoong Isda / Bagoong DilisNationwide
Made from whole small fish (often anchovies/dilis); bones soften over long fermentation.
Guinamos (Ginamos)Guimaras / Western Visayas (Hiligaynon)
Pungent shrimp paste sun-dried multiple times and foot-massaged, considered an heirloom ingredient.
Bagoong sa AngkakCommercial Filipino production
Colored pink-red with red yeast rice (Monascus) for visual appeal; milder than uncolored versions.
Used in these dishes
Substitutions
- Bagoong alamang (shrimp) → Bagoong isda (fish) — Slightly different funk and salt profile; use in dishes where small fish bones won't be objectionable.
- Homemade bagoong → Thaikapi / Vietnamese mam ruoc — Similar fermented shrimp-paste family; flavor and salinity vary — taste before salting the final dish.
- Bagoong → Anchovy paste (Italian) — Provides umami salt but lacks the deep pungent-fermented aroma; not a like-for-like swap.changes result
Troubleshooting
Paste smells putrid or rotten rather than pungent-fermented
Insufficient salt or contamination from unclean jars → Discard batch; next time weigh salt at 25% of seafood weight and sterilize vessels with boiling water.
Surface growth of mold or film
Solids exposed above the brine surface → Skim off the surface layer and press solids firmly back under brine; top up with extra saltwater brine if needed.
Paste too thin / watery after months of curing
Under-evaporation or a particularly wet batch of krill → Decant excess brine (reserve for stir-fries), continue sun-drying, or blend in a portion of older, thicker paste.
Too salty to eat straight
Salt ratio drifted above 25% or undissolved salt concentrated at bottom → Stir thoroughly to redistribute; use as a cooking seasoning (where it will be diluted) rather than a table dip.