Doughs & batters
Focaccia genovese dough
Fügassa àa genovese · A high-hydration yeasted bread dough from Liguria, Italy, made with strong (Manitoba) flour, water, fresh yeast, extra virgin olive oil, salt and a small amount of malt or sugar. After fermenting, the dough is stretched into a generously oiled metal tray, dimpled by hand, finished with an oil-water-salt brine (salamoia) and baked at high heat to produce the iconic ~2 cm-thick Ligurian focaccia recognized as a Slow Food Presidium.
The formula
100:56:7 flour:water:oil (dough); +salamoia ≈100:10:6 water:oil:salt
Baker's percentages derived from Italia Magnifica (≈500 g flour, 280 ml water, 40 ml oil in dough); brine is poured on top before baking.
Identity
- High-hydration (~55-60%) direct or biga-fermented yeasted bread dough of Ligurian origin.
- Strong (Manitoba) wheat flour giving a soft, elastic, open-crumb structure.
- Final thickness of about 2 cm after stretching into an oiled metal tray.
- Surface finished with a salamoia (oil-water-salt brine) poured into deep finger dimples.
- Focaccia baked from this dough is recognized as a Slow Food Presidium.
Ingredients
| Base | Strong (Manitoba) flour | High-protein (~12-13%) wheat flour for gluten development and airy crumb. |
| Liquid | Lukewarm water | ≈55-60% hydration; used to dissolve yeast and malt. |
| Leavening | Fresh brewer's yeast | Low percentage (~1%) for slow, cool fermentation; replace with dry yeast at 1/3 weight. |
| Fat | Extra virgin olive oil | ≈7-8% in dough plus a generous layer on the tray; Ligurian EVO is traditional. |
| Sweetener | Malt extract (or sugar) | Feeds yeast and aids Maillard browning of the surface. |
| Seasoning | Fine salt in dough + coarse sea salt on top | ≈2% fine salt in dough; coarse grains finish the surface. |
| Garnish | Salamoia (oil + water + salt brine) | Emulsion poured over the dimpled surface before the final rise; gives gloss and seasoning. |
Method
- 1Dissolve fresh yeast and malt in lukewarm water; combine with flour, oil and salt and knead 8-10 minutes to a smooth, supple dough.A wet dough and elastic gluten network are needed for the airy crumb and the ability to stretch without tearing.
- 2Coat dough lightly with oil, cover and bulk-ferment at room temperature until doubled (≈1-2 h).A slow rise develops flavor and relaxes the gluten so the dough can later be stretched paper-thin.
- 3Generously oil a rimmed metal tray; transfer dough, stretch to fill the pan, flip once so both faces are oiled, cover and rest ~30 minutes.Oil prevents sticking, fries the bottom crust and the rest relaxes the gluten for further stretching.
- 4Dimple the dough firmly with straight fingers all the way to the metal, in close rows.Dimples trap the brine and prevent the dough from puffing into a boule during oven spring.
- 5Whisk water, oil and salt into a salamoia and pour evenly over the entire surface, filling every dimple.The brine carries salt and oil into the crumb and produces the characteristic glossy, golden crust.
- 6Allow a short final proof (15-30 min), then bake at high heat (≈230-250 °C) for 15-18 minutes until deeply golden.High heat sets the crust quickly so the crumb stays plush while the brine caramelizes on top.
Techniques that matter
Salamoia pour
Emulsion of water, oil and salt poured over the dimples; the defining feature of authentic Genovese focaccia.
Finger dimpling (a sckiffeu)
Presses dough to the tray to lock brine in and prevent doming during oven spring.
Two-stage fermentation
Bulk rise plus pan rest develops flavor and lets the gluten relax enough to stretch without tearing.
Oil-only tray (no parchment)
Allows a fried, crispy bottom and edges characteristic of Ligurian focaccia.
Biga pre-ferment (optional)
An overnight cold biga deepens flavor and opens the crumb, as used in some home and bakery versions.
Variations & derivatives
Focaccia di Recco (col formaggio)Recco (Genoa), Liguria
Very thin dough stretched twice and layered with stracchino/crescenza cheese.
Focaccia con le cipolleLiguria
Topped with slow-cooked onions before baking.
Focaccia all'olioGenoa
Simplest version: brine only, no other toppings — the benchmark of authenticity.
Sardenaira / Pizza all'AndreaSanremo, Liguria
Same base topped with tomato, anchovies, olives and capers.
SchiacciataTuscany
Close Tuscan cousin; similar high-hydration dough, dimpled and baked with oil.
Used in these dishes
Substitutions
- Fresh brewer's yeast → Active dry yeast — Use about 1/3 the weight; dissolve in the warm water first.
- Manitoba (strong) flour → Bread flour (≥12% protein) — Acceptable for home baking; Manitoba gives more extensible gluten.
- Ligurian EVO oil → Other mild extra virgin olive oil — Use a mild, grassy EVO; do not substitute butter or seed oils in the dough.
- Malt extract → Sugar or honey — Sugar feeds yeast and browns the crust; honey adds a faint floral note.
- Coarse sea salt on top → Fine salt in the salamoia only — Loses the crunchy crystal texture but still seasons the surface.changes result
Troubleshooting
Dense, tight crumb
Under-proofed dough, weak flour, or fermentation halted too soon. → Extend bulk rise until doubled; switch to Manitoba flour; proof at 22-24 °C.
Pale, dull surface instead of glossy gold
Too little salamoia, low oven temperature, or brine not reaching the dimples. → Pour brine generously and bake at 230-250 °C so the brine caramelizes.
Dough tears when stretched into the tray
Gluten still tight; insufficient rest after bulk or in the pan. → Let the dough relax 10-15 min in the oiled tray before stretching and dimpling.
Bottom and edges soggy instead of crisp
Insufficient oil on the tray or steam trapped under the dough. → Coat the tray generously with EVO oil and bake on a preheated surface if possible.