Custards, creams & meringues
Melktert Custard
Melktert Vulsel · A South African stovetop-thickened milk custard that is the foundational filling of the melktert (milk tart). Unlike European baked custard tarts such as the pastel de nata or dan ta, melktert custard relies on a very high milk-to-egg ratio combined with starch thickeners (cornflour plus wheat flour) to set, producing a silky, soft, spoonable custard that is poured into a pre-baked or raw pastry shell rather than baked in situ.
The formula
~1000ml milk : 4 yolks : 40g cornflour : 25g flour : 150g sugar
Approximate per-litre base; the defining feature is the very high milk-to-egg ratio (~250:1) and combined starch thickening rather than egg coagulation.
Identity
- South African (Afrikaans) origin, descended from the Dutch mattentaart brought by settlers from the 1600s
- Stovetop-cooked starch-thickened custard, not an oven-baked egg-set custard
- Very high milk-to-egg ratio — roughly 250 ml milk per yolk, versus the near-equal egg-to-liquid ratio of pastel de nata or dan ta
- Thickened primarily by cornflour with a secondary contribution from wheat flour
- Finished with a generous dusting of ground cinnamon on the surface
- Soft, spoonable, almost pourable set — not firm enough to slice cleanly on its own
Ingredients
| Base | Whole (full-fat) milk | The dominant ingredient by volume; 1 L is typical for a family tart. Low-fat milk yields a thinner, less creamy set. |
| Enrichment | Heavy or whipping cream | Optional addition that gives the custard's signature luxurious mouthfeel; some traditional recipes omit it and rely solely on milk. |
| Binder | Egg yolks | Used in far smaller quantity than in European custard tarts — 3–5 yolks per litre of milk rather than 6–10 whole eggs. |
| Thickener | Cornflour (cornstarch) | Primary setting agent; gives a glossy, soft set. |
| Thickener | Cake or all-purpose flour | Secondary thickener that supports the cornflour and gives the custard body. |
| Sweetener | Granulated sugar | Typically 100–150 g per litre of milk; dissolved into the yolk slurry. |
| Enrichment | Butter | A knob stirred in at the end for sheen, richness, and a smoother texture. |
| Aromatics | Cinnamon, nutmeg, and/or cardamom | Cinnamon is mandatory as a surface garnish; nutmeg and cardamom are traditional warming spices infused into the milk. |
| Flavor | Vanilla or almond extract | Almond extract is particularly characteristic of home-style Cape melktert; vanilla is a common modern addition. |
Method
- 1Heat the milk (with cream, if using) gently with nutmeg, cardamom, and any whole spices until just below simmering.Infuses the dairy with warming spice flavour and brings the liquid to the temperature needed for smooth starch activation and tempering.
- 2Whisk egg yolks with sugar, cornflour, and flour in a separate bowl to form a smooth, lump-free paste.Pre-dispersing the starches in the yolks guarantees even hydration and prevents lumps when the hot milk is added.
- 3Temper the yolk mixture by slowly whisking in a ladleful of the hot milk, then gradually incorporate the rest.Gradually raises the temperature of the yolks so they do not scramble on contact with hot milk.
- 4Return the combined mixture to the saucepan and cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until it thickens to a soft, spoon-coating custard.Activates the cornflour and flour starches, which swell and gel the milk; gentle heat and constant whisking prevent scorching and lumps.
- 5Off the heat, whisk in the butter and any vanilla or almond extract.Adds richness, gloss, and a final layer of flavour without overcooking the starches.
- 6Strain through a fine sieve into the pre-baked (or raw) pastry shell and smooth the surface.Removes any unmixed lumps, spice solids, or overcooked bits to guarantee a silky pour.
- 7Dust the surface generously with ground cinnamon and chill until set.Cinnamon is the signature finish of melktert; chilling lets the starch set the custard into its characteristic soft, sliceable-but-spoonable texture.
Techniques that matter
Tempering eggs with hot milk
With such a small egg-to-milk ratio the yolks still need gentle warming or they will scramble when combined with hot dairy.
Dual-starch (cornflour + wheat flour) thickening
Cornflour gives gloss and soft set; wheat flour adds body and stability so the custard holds its shape in the shell.
Straining before pouring
Guarantees the smooth, silky texture melktert is prized for, even if a few lumps formed during cooking.
Variations & derivatives
Unbaked filling in a pre-baked shellMost modern South African home kitchens
Stovetop custard poured into a blind-baked sweet-pastry shell and chilled; the most common contemporary style.
Baked filling in a raw shellTraditional Afrikaner and Cape Malay recipes
The custard is poured into an unbaked crust and baked until just set; yields a slightly firmer, more pudding-like interior.
Almond-flavoured melktertCape Malay and home baking tradition
Almond extract replaces or supplements vanilla for a distinctly nutty, marzipan-like note.
Cardamom and nutmeg melktertClassic Afrikaner style
Cardamom and freshly grated nutmeg are infused into the milk for the spiced profile described in the Seb recipe.
Vegan or dairy-free melktertContemporary adaptations
Plant milk thickened with cornflour and a little plant butter; custard is more delicate and relies almost entirely on starch.
Used in these dishes
Substitutions
- Whole milk → 2% or low-fat milk — Works but produces a thinner, less creamy set; increase cornflour slightly.
- Cornflour (cornstarch) → Additional wheat flour — Gloss and soft set are lost; custard becomes more pasty and floury.changes result
- Egg yolks → Extra cornflour only — Loses the pale-yellow colour and richness; pure starch version is possible but is no longer traditional melktert custard.changes result
- Butter → Margarine — Traditional substitute in many South African home recipes; flavour is slightly different.
- Heavy cream → Extra whole milk — Result is lighter and less rich; still authentic in style.
Troubleshooting
Lumpy custard
Starch added to hot liquid too quickly or insufficient whisking while thickening. → Press through a fine sieve and whisk vigorously; next time whisk constantly and pre-mix starch with yolks and sugar.
Custard too thin and weeping in the shell
Starches undercooked or ratio of thickener to milk too low. → Return to the pan and cook a further 1–2 minutes until it coats the back of a spoon; chill fully before slicing.
Custard too thick or gluey
Over-cooked starch or too much cornflour/flour. → Off heat, whisk in warm milk a tablespoon at a time until it loosens to a pourable consistency.
Surface 'skin' or weeping on chilling
Rapid cooling or starch syneresis after over-thickening. → Press plastic wrap directly onto the warm surface before chilling; do not overcook the starches.