Cold sauces & condiments
garlic sauce
aioli · A cold, emulsified sauce built on the permanent suspension of fat in a water-phase medium, stabilized by egg yolk, with raw garlic producing a sharp, pungent finish. The classical aioli of Provence uses no additional flavorings — the garlic speaks alone.
The formula
1 yolk : 200 ml oil : 5 ml acid
Scale by yolk. Each yolk emulsifies ~200–220 ml oil. Garlic: 2–3 cloves (~10 g) crushed to smooth paste with salt, rested 5 min. Oil at 20–24 °C — neutral (safflower, grapeseed) or very mild olive. Lemon juice or white wine vinegar (~5 ml). All ingredients at room temperature. Oil incorporated drop-by-drop initially until stable premix forms, then in thin steady stream. Finished sauce ~300 g per yolk.
Identity
- Egg yolk as primary emulsifier — lecithin coats oil droplets, preventing coalescence
- Raw garlic, crushed to a silky paste — develops allicin enzymatically without bitterness
- Slow initial oil incorporation — creates nucleation sites for stable emulsion
- Acid added before oil — denatures yolk proteins gently, conditioning them to bind fat
- Strictly cold or room-temperature — heat above 70 °C collapses the emulsion irreversibly
Ingredients
| Binder | egg yolk, large | Primary emulsifier. Lecithin surrounds oil droplets; one yolk stabilizes ~200–250 ml oil. |
| Aromatics | garlic cloves, raw | Crushed to a smooth paste with salt. Rest 5 minutes after crushing to allow allicin development. |
| Fat | neutral oil | Safflower, grapeseed, or very mild olive oil. Strong olive oil overwhelms garlic and introduces bitterness. 200–220 ml per yolk. |
| Acid | fresh lemon juice | ~5 ml per yolk. Lowers pH, sharpens flavor, and strengthens emulsification by denaturing yolk proteins. |
| Seasoning | fine salt | 1–2 g. Dissolves in and helps extract garlic juice; seasons the sauce. |
| Binder | Dijon mustard (optional) | Half a teaspoon. Co-emulsifier improving stability and bridging garlic and yolk. Traditional aioli omits it; many cooks include it. |
Method
- 1Crush garlic with fine salt into a smooth, wet paste using a mortar and pestle or the flat of a knife.Salt lacerates cell walls, extracting allicin-forming compounds. A fine paste ensures even garlic distribution without chunks.
- 2Combine egg yolk, garlic paste, and lemon juice in a bowl or mortar. Whisk or work with the pestle until uniform.The yolk must be fully hydrated with the garlic and acid before oil introduction. Acid begins denaturing yolk proteins, preparing them to bind fat.
- 3Add oil one drop at a time, whisking vigorously, until 30–40 ml has been incorporated and a stable premix forms.Slow initial incorporation creates many tiny oil droplets coated in yolk-lecithin. This premix is the nucleation site for the rest of the emulsion. Skipping this step causes immediate breaking.
- 4Once premix is thick and stable, pour oil in a thin, steady stream while whisking constantly at medium speed.Continuous whisking replenishes lecithin at the oil-water interface as new droplets form. A thin stream prevents oversized droplets that cannot be stabilized.
- 5Stop adding oil when sauce is thick, pale, and holds a defined ribbon when the whisk is lifted. Adjust seasoning with salt and lemon juice.Over-thickening indicates the emulsion is nearing its capacity. Final seasoning balances the sharp garlic and acid.
- 6If serving immediately, bring to room temperature. If storing, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface and refrigerate.Cold egg yolk hardens the sauce; room-temperature service restores a creamy, spreadable consistency. Direct plastic contact prevents a dried skin from forming.
Techniques that matter
Emulsification (oil-in-water)
Egg yolk lecithin is an amphiphile: hydrophilic head binds water-phase proteins, hydrophobic tail enters oil droplets. Without agitation, oil and water separate. Lecithin must coat each droplet faster than droplets coalesce.
Allicin formation
Crushing ruptures garlic cell compartments, allowing alliinase to convert alliin to allicin. A 5-minute rest before adding to yolk lets this reaction run; heat would denature alliinase.
Controlled oil incorporation
Emulsion stability is rate-limited. Slow addition early gives lecithin time to fully coat droplets (Ostwald ripening suppressed). Faster addition later is possible once a stable network of coated droplets exists.
Acidic destabilization prevention
Lemon juice must be added before oil — it denatures yolk proteins gently and pre-conditions the emulsion. Adding acid to a finished thick emulsion causes instantaneous breaking.
Variations & derivatives
aioli provençalProvence, France
Garlic, egg yolk, olive oil, salt — no mustard. Some traditionalists omit yolk entirely (true aioli ligurien), serving it as a raw garlic-and-oil paste with bread, but the sauce form is universal.
aioli mongetProvence
Aioli with a garnish of boiled vegetables (green beans, potatoes, carrots) served as a complete cold dish, not a condiment.
skordaliaGreece
Thick garlic sauce using potato or blanched almonds as the body instead of (or alongside) egg yolk. More rustic, starchy texture.
toumLebanon / Levantine cuisine
Egg-free garlic sauce — garlic paste emulsified with oil alone, stabilized by vigorous pounding and the starches released from garlic. Much whiter and sharper than aioli.
agliataItaly (Liguria, Tuscany)
Raw garlic ground with walnuts and breadcrumbs, moistened with vinegar. A rougher, older preparation without egg.
Used in these dishes
Substitutions
- egg yolk → aquafaba (3 tbsp per yolk equivalent) or commercial egg-free mayo — Aquafaba lacks lecithin; emulsion will be less stable and more prone to breaking. Fine for vegan-adjacent applications, not for classical foundation use.changes result
- lemon juice → white wine vinegar — Vinegar is acceptable but slightly less effective as an emulsifier synergist. Flavor profile shifts from bright citrus to tangy-sharp.
- neutral oil → mild olive oil — Acceptable but adds a distinct olive flavor that can overpower the garlic. Use a very mild, low-polyphenol oil for best results.
Troubleshooting
Sauce breaks (oil separates into pools)
Oil added too quickly before a stable premix formed, or oil too cold, or egg yolk not at temperature. → Start a fresh yolk in a clean bowl, whisk in the broken sauce drop by drop as if it were oil — this rescues the mixture. Alternatively, blend with a new yolk in a blender at high speed.
Garlic tastes bitter or harsh
Garlic not crushed to a fine paste; allicin over-developed; garlic added directly to acid without resting. → Ensure paste is silky before adding to yolk. Rest crushed garlic 3–5 minutes before use. Use slightly less garlic and balance with more lemon juice.
Sauce is too thick to incorporate further oil
Emulsion has reached its viscosity ceiling — too much oil relative to available lecithin from the yolk. → Do not add more oil. Whisk in a teaspoon of cold water or lemon juice to thin slightly. A thick aioli is not broken; it simply cannot accept more fat.
Sauce tastes flat or under-seasoned
Garlic and lemon not properly balanced; insufficient salt to bring out garlic depth. → Add lemon juice 2–3 drops at a time, tasting. Add a pinch of salt. The garlic should be sharp and present, not muted.