Doughs & batters
Hardangerlefse dough
Hardangerlefse · A sweet, enriched Norwegian wheat-flour dough leavened with horn salt (ammonium bicarbonate) or baking powder, thinned with buttermilk, eggs, sugar and butter, then rolled paper-thin on barley flour and baked dry on a hot griddle. It is the foundational dough for the pre-potato Hardanger variety of lefse, dating to the Viking period and traditionally served at Christmas.
The formula
buttermilk:flour:eggs:butter:sugar = 0.5L:1kg:2:125g:250g
Add 1 tsp horn salt / ammonium bicarbonate (or baking powder) and barley flour for rolling.
Identity
- Norwegian — from the Hardanger region of western Norway
- Viking-era origin, predating the potato introduction of the 1700s
- Sweet enriched flatbread, traditionally a Christmas treat
- Cooked on a dry (ungreased) hot griddle, not baked in an oven
- Pre-potato ancestor of modern American potato lefse
Ingredients
| Base | fine wheat flour (~1 kg) | The structural flour; whole-grain or spelt variants exist but the Norsk Folkemuseum canonical formula uses fine wheat flour. |
| Acid | buttermilk (~½ litre) | Activates the horn salt/baking powder; can be substituted with soured milk or yogurt. |
| Leavening | horn salt (ammonium bicarbonate) or baking powder (1 tsp) | Traditional Norwegian choice is horn salt; baking soda activated by the buttermilk's acidity also works. |
| Enrichment | whole eggs (2) | Adds richness and color; some recipes omit or add syrup instead. |
| Fat | melted butter or margarine (125 g) | Enriches the dough and tenderizes the cooked flatbread. |
| Sweetener | sugar (250 g) | Distinguishes Hardangerlefse from savory lefse; agave/syrup variants exist. |
| Seasoning | salt (pinch) | Balances the sweetness; optional in home recipes. |
| Thickener | barley flour (for rolling) | Used as a dusting flour when rolling — its coarser texture prevents sticking better than wheat flour. |
Method
- 1Whisk the eggs with the sugar and the melted butter, then stir the mixture into the buttermilk.Emulsifies the fat into the dairy so the dough stays homogenous and tender.
- 2Mix the horn salt / baking powder with a portion of the wheat flour.Distributes the leavening evenly so it activates uniformly throughout the dough.
- 3Stir the dry blend into the wet, then work in enough remaining wheat flour to form a soft, pliable, non-sticky dough.Hydration controls the final texture — too little flour yields sticky dough, too much makes a tough flatbread.
- 4Rest the dough briefly (15–30 minutes) covered.Relaxes the gluten and gives the horn salt / baking powder time to begin reacting with the buttermilk.
- 5Divide and roll each portion paper-thin on a surface dusted with barley flour, turning often.Barley flour's coarser grits stop the dough sticking; thin rolling is essential to the characteristic soft, layered texture.
- 6Transfer each round to a dry, hot griddle or ungreased frying pan and bake briefly on each side until spotted.No fat is used — the dry, very hot surface sets the thin dough quickly and produces the signature soft, pliable flatbread.
- 7Stack finished rounds with sheets of waxed or greaseproof paper between them; cool before storing or serving.Paper layers stop the hot lefse sticking together and let residual steam escape without sogginess.
Techniques that matter
Rolling paper-thin on barley flour
The defining skill — the thinness and the barley dusting give the flatbread its soft, pliable, non-sticky character.
Dry griddling (no added fat)
Unlike pancakes, lefse is cooked on a bare hot surface so it dries slightly and becomes storable, not fried.
Resting with leavener
Horn salt (ammonium bicarbonate) releases ammonia and CO₂ on heat; a short rest ensures even distribution and a tender crumb.
Variations & derivatives
Yeast-risen HardangerlefseOlder Norwegian home recipes
CooksInfo notes that some versions use yeast instead of chemical leavener; the dough is allowed to rise before rolling.
Syrup-enriched doughRicher Norwegian home bakes
Some recipes add white syrup (lys sirup) or golden syrup alongside sugar and eggs for deeper color and flavor.
Oat-flour / whole-grain versionAmerican-adapted (BigOven)
Substitutes oat flour for wheat, retains horn salt or baking soda; produces a heartier dried flatbread.
Agave-sweetened versionAmerican home baking (Margulis)
Uses agave nectar and a mix of whole spelt and wheat flours; buttermilk may be swapped for yogurt.
Used in these dishes
Substitutions
- buttermilk → plain yogurt or soured milk — Provides the acidity needed to activate baking soda; yogurt gives a slightly tangier result.
- granulated sugar → agave nectar or golden syrup — Use less liquid and slightly more flour to compensate; flavor will be more caramelly.
- butter → margarine — Direct swap; used traditionally at Norsk Folkemuseum and keeps the dough pareve-friendly.
- baking powder → horn salt (ammonium bicarbonate / hjortetaksalt) — Traditional Norwegian leavener; gives a drier, more cracker-like crumb and is essential for the dried, storable form.
- fine wheat flour → whole spelt or whole wheat flour — Produces a denser, more rustic flatbread; may need a touch more buttermilk.
Troubleshooting
Dough sticks to the work surface or rolling pin
Insufficient barley-flour dusting or dough too wet → Dust more liberally with barley flour and roll in smaller portions; add a little extra flour if the dough is sticky.
Lefse is tough or cracker-like instead of soft and pliable
Too much flour, overworked dough, or griddle too hot / cooked too long → Reduce flour to the minimum needed to handle, rest longer, and shorten griddle time — spots, not brown patches.
Lefse sticks to the griddle and tears on flipping
Griddle not hot enough, or dough rolled too thick → Preheat the griddle fully and roll thinner; flip as soon as small brown spots appear.
Pale, flat result with little lift
Horn salt / baking powder old or unevenly distributed → Use fresh leavener and mix it thoroughly with the flour before combining with the wet ingredients.