Spice & Flavor Techniques
Toasting Dried Chilies
Also: dry-toasting chiles, chile toasting, roasting dried chiles, dry-roasting chiles
Briefly heating dried chiles in a dry pan or on a comal to activate their oils and deepen flavor before rehydrating or grinding.
Pre-Columbian Mesoamerican technique; the comal (a flat clay or iron griddle) is among the oldest kitchen implements documented in Mesoamerican archaeology; the practice was observed and recorded by Spanish friars from the 16th century onward
Definition
Dried chiles — ancho, mulato, pasilla, guajillo, chipotle, morita, cascabel, and dozens of others — undergo a further flavor transformation when subjected to direct dry heat. The pod's residual oils, sugars, and Maillard-susceptible compounds react at the surface of the flesh, generating new aromatic molecules: roasted, smoky, nutty, and chocolate-adjacent notes that are absent in the untoasted chile. The technique is standard in Mexican, Central American, and some Oaxacan mole preparations. Method: place the dried, cleaned (seeded, deveined, or not, per the recipe) chile flat in a dry comal or heavy skillet over medium heat. Press it flat with a spatula or tongs for 5–10 seconds per side until the skin blisters slightly and the kitchen fills with a fragrant, chile-scented smoke. The chile should soften marginally and change color to a darker, more uniform brown; it should not turn black, which signals bitterness. Immediately transfer to a bowl and cover with hot water to rehydrate (15–30 minutes), or grind dry. Toasting dramatically expands the aromatic complexity of mole negro, mole rojo, birria, chile colorado, and enchilada sauces. Overtoasting is the most common error: burnt chiles add harsh, acrid bitterness that cannot be corrected.
In use
“He pressed each ancho flat on the hot comal for a count of eight per side, watching for the blisters and the smoky perfume that told him they were done.”
See also
- TechniqueRehydrating Dried Chiles
- CuisineMexican
- IngredientDried Chiles
Related terms
References
- 1.Authentic Mexican — Rick Bayless with Deann Groen Bayless (1987)
- 2.Mexico: The Cookbook — Margarita Carrillo Arronte (2014)
- 3.Oaxaca al Gusto — Diana Kennedy (2010)
- 4.The Flavor Bible — Karen Page & Andrew Dornenburg (2008)
Confidence: high
Notes
Signs of correct toast
A properly toasted chile: lightens, then deepens in color (from brick-red to a richer, slightly darker tone); turns pliable and slightly glossy from released oils; emits a fragrant, smoky-sweet aroma. Signs of a burnt chile: blackened patches; sharp, acrid smell; intensely bitter taste. When in doubt, err on the side of less toasting — undertoasted chiles are far easier to work with than scorched ones.
Seeds and veins
Whether to remove seeds and veins before or after toasting is debated. Rick Bayless recommends removing them after a brief toasting so the flesh can be pressed flat; Diana Kennedy often toasts whole then rehydrates and removes seeds in the soaking water. Seeds left in add bitterness and heat; many traditional moles include a small proportion of toasted seeds deliberately.
The soaking liquid
The water used to rehydrate toasted chiles carries significant flavor and should be tasted before discarding. Some moles call for this soaking liquid to be added to the sauce; others strain it out if it tastes excessively bitter (a sign of slight over-toasting). Bitter soaking water can be diluted by adding a second rinse with fresh hot water.