Scrambled Eggs with Tomato and Chives

Halve the tomatoes crosswise. Hold each half over a bowl and gently squeeze to release the seeds and excess juice. Roughly chop the flesh and set aside in a collector bowl.

Finely snip chives with scissors directly into a small bowl. Set aside for finishing.

Crack eggs into a wide mixing bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Beat with a fork just until the yolks and whites are combined—stop there. Overbeaten eggs get temperamental.

Heat a 12-inch non-stick pan over medium-low heat. Add 2 tablespoons of butter and let it melt and foam for 30 seconds. This is your cooking medium and it deserves attention.

Add the chopped tomato. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 4-5 minutes until the tomato has softened, collapsed, and most of its liquid has evaporated. The tomatoes should be jammy, not watery. Season lightly with salt.

Reduce heat to low. Pour in the egg mixture and let it sit undisturbed for 20 seconds to begin setting on the bottom.

Using a wide spatula, gently push the eggs from the edges toward the center in slow, deliberate sweeps. Tilt the pan to let the uncooked eggs flow to the open surface. Repeat every 15 seconds, creating large, soft curds.

When the eggs are just barely set but still look quite wet and glossy, remove the pan from heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and fold it in—the residual heat will finish the cooking. Add half the chives and fold gently.

Toast the bread until golden on both sides. Stack two slices per plate or lay them alongside—do not arrange them as a raft or a fan. Nobody needs architecture at breakfast.

Spoon the eggs directly onto or beside the toast. Scatter remaining chives over the top. Serve immediately, because scrambled eggs wait for no one, and neither should you.