Spaghetti with Clams, Garlic, and Lemon

Rinse the clams under cold running water, scrubbing each shell with a stiff brush. Discard any that are cracked or that refuse to close when tapped.

Place the cleaned clams in a bowl of well-salted cold water (like the sea — about 3% salt) and let them purge for 30 minutes. Drain and rinse once more.

Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Drop in the spaghetti and cook until just shy of al dente, about 1 minute less than the package directs.

Reserve 2 cups of the starchy pasta water before draining. This is your insurance — the silky sauce depends on it.

In a wide, heavy skillet over medium heat, warm the olive oil until it shimmers. Add the sliced garlic and a pinch of salt.

Let the garlic bloom slowly, stirring with a wooden spoon, until it turns pale golden and fragrant — about 2 minutes. Do not let it brown or it turns bitter.

Turn the heat to high, add the purged clams, and cover the pan tightly. Cook for 3-4 minutes, shaking the pan once or twice, until the clams have opened. Discard any that stay closed.

Pour in the lemon juice and zest. Nestle the drained spaghetti into the clam pan along with a splash of the reserved pasta water.

Toss everything together over medium-high heat for 1 minute, letting the pasta drink in that briny, garlicky sauce. Add more pasta water a little at a time if the pan looks dry — you want glossy, not watery.

Remove from heat, scatter the chopped parsley over the top, crack in some black pepper, and give one final toss.

Serve immediately in warm shallow bowls. Eat it now — this dish waits for no one.