Proteins

Climbing Perch

Hardy Asian freshwater fish with firm flesh — fried whole or curried in Bengali cooking.

Climbing perch is a hardy freshwater fish of South and Southeast Asia, named for its ability to survive out of water and 'climb' over land. Its firm, slightly sweet flesh is fried whole until crisp or simmered in spiced curries, especially in Bengali and Thai kitchens. It is bony but flavorful, often cooked with the head on.

Climbing perch (Anabas testudineus) is a hardy freshwater fish native to the wetlands, rice paddies, and slow-moving rivers of South and Southeast Asia—from Bangladesh and West Bengal through Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, and into Malaysia and Indonesia. It is a staple in regional cuisines from Bengal to the Mekong Delta, yet remains largely unknown outside its native markets. The fish possesses a remarkable physiological trait: a labyrinth organ that allows it to breathe air and survive out of water for hours, which is why it travels to market with remarkable freshness even overland.

What makes climbing perch exceptional in the kitchen is its firm, dense flesh with high protein and low fat content. This is not a delicate, flaky fish—it holds together under the harshest conditions: deep-frying whole, simmering in aggressive Bengali curries, or steaming in coconut milk. The yield is approximately 45–50% edible meat from a whole fish, and the flesh is mild and slightly sweet with few small bones, making it approachable across flavor profiles. In Bangladesh and West Bengal, it is sometimes called a poor-man's fish but is deeply prized for its ability to maintain structure in robust preparations. The fish also carries religious significance in some Hindu communities and is avoided on certain fasting days.

When purchasing climbing perch, look for clear, bright eyes and bright red gills; the flesh should smell of fresh cucumber, never of mud, algae, or sulfur. Cook it the same day for best quality, or keep it on ice for no more than one to two days. Frozen climbing perch loses its firm texture and develops a mealy quality—only freeze if cleaned and vacuum-sealed. The firm texture means it rewards high-heat cooking: scoring the skin deeply before frying prevents bursting, and starting the fish in hot oil sets the exterior before it goes into any curry or braise.

Measured in: piece
Storage: Fridge

Allergens

Fish

Types & varieties

Wild-caught

Most common in markets across South and Southeast Asia; stronger, more complex flavor from a varied diet

Farmed

Increasingly available; cleaner flavor and more consistent size; raised in ponds

Why Climbing Perch Holds Its Shape

The fish's exceptional firmness comes from its high protein density and low fat content. Unlike flakier fish that break apart when boiled or simmered in aggressive curries, climbing perch maintains its structure even in long-cooking preparations. This makes it uniquely suited to Bengali koi curry—where fish is fried first, then simmered in a hot turmeric and chili masala—or to steaming in coconut milk and aromatics. The firm texture also makes it ideal for grinding into fish cakes and pastes.

High protein, low fat = dense, resilient flesh
Can withstand long simmers without falling apart
Grinds well for fish cakes and curry pastes

Bengali Preparation Fundamentals

In Bengali and Bangladeshi cooking, climbing perch is most often prepared as maasor koi (curried climbing perch) or fried whole as a bhaja. The Bengali approach relies on a brief marinade of turmeric and salt—just long enough to season the flesh, not so long that the acid draws out moisture and makes the flesh mushy. The fish is scored deeply on both sides before frying; this allows heat to penetrate evenly and prevents the tough skin from bursting under hot oil. Mustard oil is the traditional cooking medium, bringing a pungent, slightly bitter edge that complements the mild fish.

Score deeply before any high-heat cooking
Marinate briefly—turmeric and salt only
Mustard oil as the traditional cooking medium

Common uses

Fried whole in Bengali cuisine, scored and deep-fried until crispyCurried in mustard oil with turmeric, chili, and ginger (Bengali koi or maasor koi curry)Grilled whole with herbs in Thai and Cambodian cookingSteamed or braised in coconut milk with aromaticsStir-fried with vegetables and soy-based saucesAdded to clear soups and hot pots in Vietnamese cuisineMade into fish cakes or pasted for curry preparationsPan-fried in a light batter for a quick weeknight protein

Tips & pitfalls

Score the fish deeply on both sides before frying—this allows heat to penetrate evenly and prevents the tough skin from bursting
Use high heat and sufficient oil when frying whole; the oil must be at 180°C or above to achieve crispy results without sticking
In Bengali cooking, marinate briefly in turmeric and salt before frying; do not over-marinate or the flesh becomes mushy
For curries, fry the fish first to set the exterior, then add it to the masala—this prevents the delicate flesh from breaking apart in the liquid
Avoid fish with a muddy or algae smell; this flavor will dominate the dish and cannot be cooked out
Cook until the flesh flakes easily and appears opaque throughout—undercooking risks an unpleasant texture
Do not use fish that has been frozen too long; the texture becomes mealy and the flavor dulls significantly
Look for clear eyes, bright red gills, and a fresh cucumber scent when purchasing

Nutrition

124kcal

Energy

519 kJ · per 100 g

Where the calories come from

Protein 68%Carbs 0%Fat 32%

Protein

20g

40% DV

Carbs

0% DV

Fat

4.2g

5% DV

Fiber

0% DV

Sodium

60mg

3% DV

Notable micronutrients

Vitamin B12225% DV

Selenium66% DV

Niacin (B3)37% DV

Vitamin B624% DV

Phosphorus18% DV

Vitamin A13% DV

Source · USDA FoodData Central · approx. Fish, bluefish, raw

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In the shops

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Good to know

Scientific Name: Anabas testudineus
Origin: South and Southeast Asia (Bangladesh, India, Myanmar, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia)
Habitat: Freshwater ponds, rivers, swamps, rice paddies
Typical Size: 15–25 cm; maximum around 30 cm
Flavor: Mild, slightly sweet; firm, white flesh with low fat content
Texture: Firm, dense; holds up well to frying and curries; few small bones
Yield: Approximately 45–50% edible meat from whole fish
Season: Available year-round in native regions; peak in monsoon
Storage: Cook same day for best quality; keeps 1–2 days on ice; freeze only if cleaned and vacuum-sealed
Special Property: Contains labyrinth organ allowing it to breathe air and survive out of water for hours

Substitutes

Snakehead (Murrel) — The closest substitute in texture and culinary role; equally firm flesh suitable for frying and curries
Catfish — Comparable firmness and mild flavor; widely available; adjust cooking time as catfish cooks faster
Tilapia — Acceptable where climbing perch is unavailable; softer texture; use quick-cooking methods only
Carp — Traditional substitute in South Asian cooking; stronger flavor; remove larger bones before using

Pairs with

Mustard oilTurmericGinger and garlic pasteCoconut milkLemongrass and kaffir lime leavesGreen chili and tomatoFish sauce and limeFresh herbs (cilantro, Thai basil)

Also called

Climbing Perch (Koi) · Koi Fish · Anabas