Tuscan White Bean and Rosemary Braise

Pick through the white beans, discarding any shriveled ones or small stones. Rinse well under cold water.

If time permits, soak the beans in cold water for at least 4 hours or overnight. Drain and rinse before using. (If short on time, skip soaking and add an extra cup of liquid.)

Dice the onion, carrot, and celery into small, even pieces. Mince the garlic.

Warm the olive oil in your Dutch oven or stock pot over medium heat. Add the diced onion, carrot, and celery. Cook, stirring occasionally with your wooden spoon, until softened and fragrant, about 8 minutes. The vegetables should turn slightly translucent and smell sweet.

Add the minced garlic and cook for another minute, until it blooms in the oil.

Add the drained beans to the pot, followed by the water and crushed tomatoes. Toss in the rosemary and thyme sprigs, half the salt, and a pinch of black pepper.

Stir everything gently, scraping up any bits from the bottom of the pot. The scent at this point should be earthy and promising.

Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce the heat to its lowest setting. Nestle the lid on top, leaving it slightly ajar to let a wisp of steam escape. This is the long, unhurried simmer Esther insists on. Cook for 2 to 2.5 hours, checking occasionally, until the beans are buttery and tender throughout.

Stir the pot from the bottom now and then to prevent anything catching. Add a splash more water if the braise thickens too much. The liquid should just cover the beans.

Remove the herb sprigs. Taste and adjust the remaining salt and pepper.

Cut the lemon in half and squeeze a generous half over the braise. Stir it in — this brightness is Esther's signature finishing touch.

Let the braise rest for five minutes off the heat. Ladle into deep bowls, spooning plenty of the brothy juices over the top. Serve with torn bread for dipping.