Fermented Heat Tomato Macaroni

In a wide stockpot or deep frying pan over medium heat, warm the olive oil and 20g of butter until the butter foams. Add the diced onion with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes until soft, translucent, and slightly golden at the edges.

Add the sliced garlic and cook for 2 minutes until fragrant and barely golden. This is your flavor base — don't rush it.

Add the mushrooms and a fresh pinch of salt. Cook for 5 minutes, letting them release their moisture and brown slightly in the fat.

Pour in the soy sauce — yes, soy sauce in tomato sauce, and yes, it's going to be magnificent. Stir to coat everything and let it caramelize for 1 minute.

Add the crushed tomatoes, cayenne, black pepper, and remaining salt. Stir well and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the sauce thickens and the tomatoes deepen in color. Taste — adjust salt and cayenne as you like.

While the sauce simmers, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Cook the macaroni according to package directions until just al dente (usually 1 minute less than the full time). Reserve 1 cup of the cloudy, starchy pasta water before draining.

Add the drained pasta directly into the tomato sauce. Toss vigorously over medium heat, adding pasta water a splash at a time, using tongs to coat every piece and work the starchy water into a glossy, clingy emulsion.

Remove from heat and fold in the remaining butter and torn mozzarella. The residual heat will melt the cheese and the butter will sheen the whole thing into silkiness. Add more pasta water if needed — you want it saucy, not dry.

Divide into warm bowls. Serve immediately, because cold macaroni is a crime in any kitchen, heretical or otherwise.